Elystan Street

Last updated

Elystan Street
Elystan Street restaurant website logo.png
Elystan Street exterior signs.jpg
Restaurant signs in 2016
Elystan Street
Restaurant information
Established27 September 2016 (2016-09-27)
Owner(s) Phil Howard, also chef patron
Rebecca Mascarenhas
Head chefToby Burrowes (2016–2020)
Rating Michelin stars: Etoile Michelin-1.svg (2017–present)
Street address43 Elystan Street, Chelsea
CityLondon
Postal/ZIP Code SW3
CountryUnited Kingdom
Coordinates 51°29′30″N0°10′04″W / 51.4916°N 0.1677°W / 51.4916; -0.1677
Website www.elystanstreet.com

Elystan Street is a London restaurant co-owned by chef patron Phil Howard and Rebecca Mascarenhas. Howard and Mascarenhas established the restaurant on 27 September 2016, six months after Howard sold and left his previous restaurant The Square. Elystan Street earned its first Michelin star in October 2017 and has retained it since.

Contents

Background

Phil Howard had been a chef patron of The Square since its opening at St James's in December 1991. The Square earned its second Michelin star in 1998, one year after its relocation to Mayfair in 1997. [1] In March 2016, after eighteen years of holding two Michelin stars, Howard and his business partner Nigel Platts-Martin sold The Square to its newer owner Marlon Abela. [2]

Elystan Street was the former location of chef Tom Aikens's Michelin-starred eponymous restaurant, which was operated from 2003 to January 2014, aside from temporary closure for refurbishment from July 2011 to January 2012. [3] [4] Prior to establishment of Aikens's restaurant, the site was also the former location of a pub Malborough Arms. [5]

History

On 27 September 2016, Phil Howard and Rebecca Mascarenhas opened a new London restaurant Elystan Street, a former site of chef Tom Aikens's eponymous restaurant (out of Aikens's restaurants), located at 43 Elystan Street, Chelsea. [6] In contrast to The Square, Elystan Street is less formal and more casual. [7] [8] The menu is at least 25% vegetarian [9] and less complex than The Square's, and Howard's cooking skills are not as "fiddly, technical" as they had been while operating The Square. [8] [10] Under Howard as its current chef patron, Elystan Street earned its first Michelin star in 2017. [11] [12] [13]

Toby Burrowes, who worked under Howard in The Square, was the head chef of Elystan Street from its debut to February 2020. [14] Aaron Potter, previously head chef of the Italian-inspired London restaurant La Goccia at Petersham Nurseries Covent Garden, succeeded Burrowes in that same year. [15] [16]

Menus for the restaurant have been seasonal. When the restaurant debuted in 2016, served as starter course were "roasted vegetable salad with curry oil and cashew hummus"; "smoked mackerel veloute with Porthilly oysters, leek hearts and smoked eel toasts"; langoustine ravioli in a shellfish broth; and sweetbreads with barbecue dressing, hispi cabbage, and sweetcorn. Served as main course were "fillet of cod with curried cauliflower purée, coriander and lime"; "loin of lamb with pesto roasted aubergine, garlic purée, olives and balsamic vinegar"; and barbary duck breast. Served as dessert course were lemon tart and "smashed brownie with chocolate foam and hazelnut ice cream". [17]

Among dishes served in April 2018 were a langoustine tartare and a duck salad with caramelized vegetables and red onion. [10] Served in May 2018 were a veal tartare with Caesar cream and white asparagus and a sea trout fillet with crushed Jersey Royals and emulsion of mussels, leeks and mousserons. [18] The following year, a sea beet, a citrus, and shrimp butter replaced the emulsion for the sea trout dish. [19]

Among dishes served in September 2020 were Cumbrian beef tartare with artichoke, pickled girolles, mimolette, and shot of beef tea; strozzapreti with smashed courgette, tomatoes, Scottish girolles, garlic and Parmesan; chicken breast with fricassee of Scottish girolles, crayfish, sweet corn and spinach; Cornish red mullet fillet with olive oil creamed potato, piperade, tomato, fennel and olives; and bitter chocolate and salted caramel tart with crème fraîche ice cream. [20]

Reception

A. A. Gill in October 2016 noted the "topless" menu lacking "tasting lists, or[ sic ] wine-twinned dishes, palate cleansers, prestarters or baroque breadbaskets" but praised course meals that Gill ordered. [17] Luxury Travel Intelligence (LTI) wrote in March 2018, "The interior is stylish, with moody lighting and chic, concrete tables." LTI also noted cocktails served despite having no bar. [10] Ben McCormack of The Telegraph noted "baby" blue and pink chairs, lack of tablecloths, and collection of artworks by Henry Moore and Patrick Caulfield; McCormack called Elystan Street restaurant one of the best Chelsea restaurants in 2018 and 2019. [18] [19]

Food critic Neal Martin of wine publication Vinous in September 2020 praised a beef tartare dish as "a stunning opener", a strozzapreti dish as "delicious" despite being less exciting than the tartare and "a little safe", a red mullet dish as "well cooked and seasoned" despite being "conservative", and a tart dish as "nigh perfect". Martin criticised a chicken breast dish for its "tad too rich" sauce and lackluster combination of ingredients. He also noted the restaurant's lack of amuse-bouches and tasting menus since its debut. Overall, Martin found the menu not as good as the one at The Square under Howard; nevertheless, Martin recommended Elystan Street for fans of Howard who can afford the menu. [20]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">The Fat Duck</span> Restaurant in Bray, Berkshire, England

The Fat Duck is a fine dining restaurant in Bray, Berkshire, England, owned by the chef Heston Blumenthal. Housed in a 16th-century building, the Fat Duck opened on 16 August 1995. Although it originally served food similar to a French bistro, it soon acquired a reputation for precision and innovation, and has been at the forefront of many modern culinary developments, such as food pairing, flavour encapsulation and multi-sensory cooking.

As with any large town or city, food and drink has played an important role in the commerce and culture of Birmingham, England.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Chez Bruce</span> Restaurant in London, England

Chez Bruce is a restaurant located at 2 Bellevue Road in Wandsworth, London, England.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tom Aikens (restaurant)</span> Restaurant in London, England

Tom Aikens was a London Michelin-starred fine dining restaurant operated by the eponymous chef from April 2003 opening to January 2014 closure. The restaurant received mostly positive critical reception.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">El Celler de Can Roca</span> Restaurant in Spain

El Celler de Can Roca is a restaurant in Girona, Catalonia, Spain opened in 1986 by the Roca brothers, Joan, Josep and Jordi. It was first located next to their parents' restaurant Can Roca, but moved to its current purpose-built building in 2007. It has been received warmly by critics, and holds three Michelin stars. El Celler de Can Roca was ranked the best restaurant in the world by the magazine Restaurant in 2013 and 2015, and was ranked second in 2011, 2012, 2014, and 2018.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">The Box Tree</span> Restaurant in Ilkley, West Yorkshire, England

The Box Tree is a restaurant located in Ilkley, West Yorkshire, England. Owned by Adam Frontal, Yorkshire businessman, who is operating the restaurant with an emphasis of remaining very current within the fine dining offering and experience. Current Executive Chef, Brayden Davies, has been leading the kitchen since the beginning of 2023, having worked at multiple Michelin star restaurants, growing its ever strong reputation and now currently offers a new tasting menu on a monthly basis. The Box Tree was previously operated by chef Simon Gueller and his wife, Rena, from 2005 to late 2022. Under their management the restaurant has been redecorated, although elements from the original owners of the restaurant remain. Reception by food critics has improved over the years; the restaurant held a single Michelin star until 2019 and three AA rosettes. A sister company is also run by the chef, called Box Tree Events.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">La Trompette (restaurant)</span> Restaurant in London, England

La Trompette is a restaurant located in Chiswick, London, opened by co-owners Nigel Platts-Martin and Chez Bruce's chef patron Bruce Poole. Since 2008, the restaurant has held one star in the Michelin Guide.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">The Ledbury</span> Restaurant in London, England

The Ledbury is a restaurant located on Ledbury Road, Notting Hill, London, England. It held two Michelin stars from 2010 until 2021, when it lost them as it shut due to Covid-19 restrictions being impractical for the restaurant, making it ineligible for assessment by Michelin inspectors. It has also been featured in S.Pellegrino World's 50 Best Restaurants. The restaurant reopened in February 2022, after being closed for almost 2 years. It regained both Michelin stars in the 2023 Michelin Guide and was promoted to three Michelin stars in the 2024 Michelin guide.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pétrus (restaurant)</span> Restaurant in London, England

Pétrus is a restaurant in London, which serves modern French cuisine. It is located in Kinnerton Street, Belgravia and is part of Gordon Ramsay restaurants owned by celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay's Gordon Ramsay Restaurants Ltd. It has held one Michelin star since 2011, and 3 AA Rosettes.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hibiscus (restaurant)</span> Restaurant in London

Hibiscus was a London restaurant which was owned and run by French chef Claude Bosi. It was opened in 2000 in Ludlow, Shropshire, and won its first Michelin star within a year, and a second in the 2004 Guide. In July 2006, Bosi and his wife Claire announced that they were to sell the location in Ludlow and move closer to London. The property was sold to Alan Murchison, and Bosi purchased a new site on Maddox Street in London. The restaurant closed in 2016.

Harveys was a restaurant in Wandsworth, London, run by chef Marco Pierre White between 1987 and 1993. Its French cuisine was warmly received by food critics, and it was named Restaurant of the Year by The Times in 1987.

Lettonie was a restaurant owned and run by chef Martin Blunos; it was located in Bristol until 1998 when it relocated to Bath, Somerset. It was awarded a Michelin star in 1992, and a second in 1994; these were held until the restaurant was closed in 2001.

The Restaurant Marco Pierre White, also known as The Restaurant, Restaurant Marco Pierre White and later Oak Room Marco Pierre White, was a restaurant run by chef proprietor Marco Pierre White. The Restaurant was opened at the Hyde Park Hotel, London, on 14 September 1993, after White left his previous restaurant, Harveys. Following the move, the kitchen staff was more than doubled in number, and White used Pierre Koffmann's La Tante Claire as a template to pursue his third Michelin star. This was awarded in the 1995 Michelin guide. White then moved the restaurant to the Le Méridien Piccadilly Hotel, London, in 1997, taking on the listed Oak Room as the main dining room. He sought a further rating of five red forks and spoons in the guide, to gain the highest possible rating for the restaurant. It gained this award in the following guide.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Smyth (restaurant)</span> Restaurant in Chicago, Illinois, U.S.

Smyth is a restaurant located in Chicago. Alongside Alinea, Smyth is one of two restaurants in Chicago with three Michelin stars.

Philip Howard is a South African-British chef, chef patron, and restaurateur. He gained cooking skills while working under Marco Pierre White at Harveys and Simon Hopkinson at Bibendum. Howard and White's then-business partner Nigel Platts-Martin opened London restaurant The Square in December 1991, despite both of their inexperience in operating a restaurant at the time.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">The Square (restaurant)</span> London fine dining restaurant

The Square was a London fine dining restaurant, opened on 13 December 1991 in St James's. Since its opening, it had been co-owned by chef Phil Howard and wine expert Nigel Platts-Martin. It also earned its first Michelin star in 1994 and retained it from then on. After relocating to Mayfair in February 1997, The Square won a second Michelin star in 1998, which it retained until 2016, the same year when Howard and Platts-Martin sold the restaurant to a company held by Marlon Abela. It regained its first Michelin star in 2017. It closed on 31 January 2020, causing the restaurant to lose its star the following year.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tom Aikens</span> English Michelin-starred chef

Tom Aikens, also named Tom Aitkens, is an English Michelin-starred chef. Aikens briefly worked for chefs in London and Paris restaurants. Under his tenure from 1996 to 1999 as head chef and then chef patron, Pied à Terre earned its two Michelin stars in January 1997.

A. Wong is a Michelin-starred Chinese restaurant, located in Pimlico, London. It serves modern British retake on traditional Cantonese dishes. It is owned by Andrew Wong, a third-generation London restaurateur who is also the restaurant's chef de cuisine.

Kitchen Table is a restaurant located in London, England. It was opened in 2012 by husband and wife, James Knappett and Sandia Chang. Along with the restaurant, they also opened a Champagne bar called Bubbledogs at the same site, but this was closed permanently due to the COVID-19 pandemic, with the old space being converted into a lounge for customers dining at Kitchen Table.

References

Notes

  1. ↑ Howard 2012, pp. 12–13.
  2. ↑ Harmer, Janet (22 March 2016). "Philip Howard leaves the Square as restaurant is sold to Marlon Abela". The Caterer. Archived from the original on 31 January 2021. Retrieved 21 April 2021.
  3. ↑ Kühn, Kerstin (12 January 2012). "Tom Aikens reopens flagship restaurant today". The Caterer. Retrieved 27 April 2021.
  4. ↑ Gerrard, Neil (2 January 2014). "Tom Aikens Restaurant to close". The Caterer. Retrieved 27 April 2021.
  5. ↑ Wayne, Jeremy (24 May 2003). "The Guide: PREVIEW food: Jeremy Wayne finds three star-crossed restaurants in London". The Guardian. p. 33. ISSN   0261-3077. ProQuest   245978548.
  6. ↑ "Phil Howard's new Elystan Street". Harden's . 23 September 2016. Archived from the original on 31 January 2021. Retrieved 27 January 2021.
  7. ↑ "Chef Phil Howard talks to The Staff Canteen about his new restaurant". The Staff Canteen (Interview). 6 July 2016. Archived from the original on 14 February 2021. Retrieved 7 February 2021.
  8. 1 2 "How to cook like a chef at home". The Times. 18 April 2020. ISSN   0140-0460 . Retrieved 1 February 2021. Phil Howard is incorrectly credited for someone else's article, which includes some of Howard's recipes. Also accessible via ProQuest; document no. 2391161027.
  9. ↑ Godwin, Richard (4 January 2018). "Mr Phil Howard's Haute Cuisine". Mr Porter. Retrieved 26 January 2021.
  10. 1 2 3 "According to LTI, these are London's top restaurants". CNN. 19 April 2018. Archived from the original on 14 January 2021. Retrieved 1 February 2021.
  11. ↑ "MICHELIN Guide Great Britain and Ireland 2018 Selection". Michelin Guide. 17 October 2017. Archived from the original on 2 February 2021. Retrieved 29 January 2021.
  12. ↑ McAllister, James (6 February 2020). "Toby Burrowes quits Elystan Street over 'professional difference of opinion'". Big Hospitality. Archived from the original on 25 October 2020. Retrieved 27 January 2021.
  13. ↑ Baker, Abbe (1 October 2018). "MICHELIN Guide Great Britain and Ireland 2019 Selection". Michelin Guide. Archived from the original on 1 February 2021. Retrieved 27 January 2021.
  14. ↑ Stagg, James (6 February 2020). "Elystan Street head chef leaves over 'professional difference of opinion'". The Caterer. Retrieved 17 February 2021.
  15. ↑ Lake, Emma (13 August 2019). "Aaron Potter appointed head chef of La Goccia at Petersham Nurseries Covent Garden". The Caterer. Retrieved 17 February 2021.
  16. ↑ "Aaron Potter joins Elystan Street as head chef". The Staff Canteen. 7 August 2020. Archived from the original on 24 September 2020. Retrieved 17 February 2021.
  17. 1 2 Gill, A. A. (23 October 2016). "Table Talk: Eating". Sunday Times . p. 51. ISSN   0956-1382. ProQuest   1831003077. Located at "Magazine" section.
  18. 1 2 "The best restaurants in Chelsea". The Telegraph. 16 May 2018. Luxury section. ProQuest   2039608768 – via ProQuest.
  19. 1 2 McCormack, Ben (13 May 2019). "The best restaurants in Chelsea, in time for the annual Flower Show". The Telegraph. ProQuest   2224144131.
  20. 1 2 Martin, Neal (25 September 2020). "Elystan Street" . Vinous. Retrieved 10 June 2021.

General

This page is based on this Wikipedia article
Text is available under the CC BY-SA 4.0 license; additional terms may apply.
Images, videos and audio are available under their respective licenses.