Japanese wine

Last updated
Vineyards in Koshu, Yamanashi, Japan Katsunuma 1.jpg
Vineyards in Kōshū, Yamanashi, Japan

Although viticulture and the cultivation of grapes for table consumption has a long history in Japan, domestic wine production using locally produced grapes only really began with the adoption of Western culture during the Meiji restoration in the second half of the 19th century.

Contents

According to data from Japan's National Tax Agency for 2017, approximately 382,000 kiloliters of wine was purchased in Japan, of which two-thirds was imported wine. Of the 102,000 kiloliters of wine domestically produced that year, only a fifth came from domestically grown and harvested grapes. The Agency states the share of Japanese wine, as defined as domestically produced wine from domestically grown grapes, as only 4% of total domestic consumption, or 14,988 kiloliters. Only 58 kiloliters of Japanese wine was exported overseas. [1]

The main region for winemaking in Japan is in Yamanashi Prefecture which accounts for approximately a third of domestic production, [1] although grapes are cultivated and wine is also produced in more limited quantities by vintners throughout the country, from Hokkaido in the North to Miyazaki Prefecture on the Southern island of Kyushu.

History

Early history

Grape-growing in Japan began in 718 AD, in Katsunuma, Yamanashi Prefecture. [2] Japan's early viticulture was based on the Koshu grape, thought to be originally from the Georgia caucasus region. [3]

The first regularly documented wine consumption in Japan was however in the 16th century, with the arrival of Jesuit missionaries from Portugal. [2] Saint Francis Xavier brought wines as gifts for the feudal lords of Kyūshū, and other missionaries continued the practice, resulting in locals acquiring taste for wine and importing it regularly. [2] They called the Portuguese wine chintashu (珍陀酒), combining the Portuguese word tinto (chinta in Japanese) meaning red and shu () meaning liquor. [2]

Meiji Era

There was a prejudice that Japanese looked at red wine and mistook it for "blood," while Westerners drank "living blood." [4] [5]

A report written in 1869 by Adams, Secretary to the British Legation in Yedo, describes "a quantity of vines, trained on horizontal trellis frames, which rested on poles at a height of 7 or 8 feet from the ground" in the region of Koshu, Yamanashi. [6] It was not until 1873 however, after detailed reports on European wine culture were made available by returning members of the Iwakura Mission, that more focused attempts were made to promote domestic wine production. The first attempt to produce wine locally, using mainly sake brewing equipment, was undertaken by Hironori Yamada and Norihisa Takuma in Kofu, Yamanashi, in 1875. [2] In 1877, the newly formed winery Dai-Nihon Yamanashi Budoshu in Katsunuma, Yamanashi dispatched Masanari Takano and Ryuken Tsuchiya to Troyes in the Champagne region of France to learn viticulture and wine production techniques. [7] [8] The cultivation of European grape varieties formed the core of early Japanese attempts, however the project was all but destroyed in 1884 by an outbreak of Phylloxera that arrived via imported root stock. [9]

20th century

In many prefectures a few small scale viniculturists remained, but it was not until after World War II that the scale of winemaking began to grow. However, in comparison to the growth of imported wines and the production of low cost retail wines from imported grape juices, domestically grown and harvested wine still remained at an early stage of development.

Advertising poster of "AKADAMA Port Wine", the first published in 1922 AKADAMA sweet wine poster.jpg
Advertising poster of "AKADAMA Port Wine”, the first published in 1922

In terms of Japanese taste for domestically produced wine, astringency and acidity were not readily accepted at the beginning.2 For a long time sugars such as honey were added to moderate the flavor and "sweet" (甘口, amakuchi) wine was the mainstay. In 1907, Shinjiro Torii, founder of the Suntory beverages empire launched Red Sun Port Wine (赤玉ポートワイン, Akadama Pōto Wain) with an advertising campaign in 1922 that both scandalized with its suggestion of nudity, and prompted a huge boost to sales. The trend for sweetened, fortified and medicinal tonic wines continued until the 1970s when wine was still fundamentally known as grape liquor (葡萄酒, budōshu), and only a small minority imported and drank European wine.3

During the 1970s and 80s the skill level of wine making increased and the purchases of both imported and domestic wine grew with the rapidly expanding economy. Specialists began to call their holdings "wineries", and the emulation of Western style hedging and cultivation of insect resistant grape varieties spread. For the first time domestic wineries began to focus on producing superior wines using only domestically cultivated grapes. Also, in response to demand from Japanese consumers, the production of organic wines also became popular.

In the 1990s and 2000s due to a reduction in taxes on imported wine and a diversification of Japanese food culture, wine consumption continued to grow. In 1995, Shinya Tasaki became the first Japanese to be awarded the title of Meillieur Sommelier du Monde, and helped to significantly raise public awareness of wine appreciation. Media attention given to the beneficial effects of polyphenol (tannins) and local government led efforts to promote high quality domestically produced wine also contributed to industry expansion. From 2002 onward, leading with Yamanashi Prefecture, competitions focused on "Japanese wine using only 100% Japanese grapes" began.

Vine cultivation

Elevated vine trellises, Koshu, Yamanashi Katsunuma 3.jpg
Elevated vine trellises, Kōshū, Yamanashi

To accommodate the challenges of climate and terrain in Japan vine cultivation techniques have been extensively adapted. In areas of high humidity during the summer, an elevated horizontal hedging technique known as "Tanajitate" (棚仕立) is used to keep the fruit about 1.5–2 meters above the ground to allow ventilation. Horizontal trellises have also proven effective in reducing wind damage from typhoons. On sloping land, Italian ryegrass is often planted under the vines to help prevent soil erosion.

In areas higher in the mountains, such as Tochigi, where good sunlight is at odds with the jagged terrain, winemakers have planted their hedges on steep hillsides both to receive a maximum of sunlight, as well as protect the vines against damage from heavy snowfall.

Industry structure

Japanese Shinshu Wine (Xin Zhou wain) from Nagano Prefecture Japanese wine.jpg
Japanese Shinshū Wine (信州ワイン) from Nagano Prefecture

There are relatively few independent wine producers in Japan, the industry being dominated by large beverage conglomerates such as Suntory, owner of the Snaraku, and Manns Wine brands, Sapporo trading with brands such as Chateau Lion, Delica, and Kirin through its Mercian Corporation operating subsidiary, owner of the Chateau Mercian label. [10] All the major beverage conglomerates have access to domestically grown grapes, but given the challenge of climate on domestic grape production, three quarters of the wine bottled by Japanese producers relies to some extent on imported bulk wine or grape concentrate. [11] Domestically produced mass market wines using imported wine or grape concentrate are required by law to note this on the label.

Japanese wines produced using only 100% domestic grape content command a price premium and are only occasionally exported. [12] Smaller, family or city owned wineries of note gaining a reputation for producing domestically grown wines of consistently better quality include Marufuji, Kizan, Katsunuma Jozo, Grace (all in Yamanashi Prefecture) Takeda (Yamagata Prefecture) and Tsuno (Miyazaki Prefecture).

Major wine producing regions of Japan

In Japan the main regions for wine production, listed in order of production volume of wine made from domestically-grown grapes, are Yamanashi (31%), Nagano (23%) and Hokkaidō (17%). [1] In Yamanashi, the main wine region is the Koshu Valley, an area that centers around the town of Koshu and is home to 70 of the approximately 80 wineries in the prefecture. In Hokkaidō, the town of Ikeda recovered economically from a state of bankruptcy with regional planning toward grape growing and wine production and within 20 years following 1960 was able to make it successful. Thereafter, every region began to foster production, the main cause of which was the influence of the nationwide "One Village, One Speciality Movement" (一村一品運動, Isson Ippin Undō). In Yamagata during World War II wine was produced in large amounts for the military to provide the dietary supplement cream of tartar, and because the soil in Yamagata is suitable for fruit cultivation, today it is one region that is home to numerous well known producers. In the recent past Aichi Prefecture was also a large producer of wine.

Japanese grape varieties

Japan supports a wide range of grape varieties although the vast majority of this production is for table consumption and only a small percentage is used in domestic wine making. Strictly speaking there are no vines native to Japan, [13] although the Koshu white wine grape has evolved locally over many centuries and is therefore considered an indigenous variety. [14] Hardy varietals imported from North America such as the Delaware and Niagara grape were widely planted in the post war period, but since 1985 have significantly declined in popularity. [15] Premium table consumption grapes such as Kyoho and more recently Pione, a hybrid cultivar of Kyoho and Cannon Hall Muscat, command significant price premiums for producers.

Grapes used solely for winemaking are produced in limited quantities as price margins for table grapes are often significantly higher. Imported wine grape cultivars include Müller-Thurgau, Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Koshu

Koshu grape Marufuji Winery 190907f1.jpg
Koshu grape
Muscat Hamburg grape Rudolf Goethe04.jpg
Muscat Hamburg grape

Koshu is a white wine grape variety grown primarily in Yamanashi Prefecture. The grape varietal developed from vines likely imported from the Caucasus through the Silk Road, at a period estimated to be around a thousand years ago. [16] The grape is a hybrid variety indigenous to Japan, and benefits from a relatively thick skin able to withstand the damp of the Japanese Summer. [17] The name “Koshu” is a former name for Yamanashi.

Characteristics of wines made from the Koshu grape are typically a pale, straw colour and a soft, fruity bouquet with overtones of citrus and peach. The taste is often described as clean, delicate and fresh, considered a good match for Japanese cuisine. [18]

Muscat Bailey A

"Muscat Bailey-A" (マスカットべリーA) is a red wine grape hybrid developed by Zenbei Kawakami ( 川上善兵衛 , Kawakami Zenbei) (1868–1944) at the Iwanohara Winery (岩の原わいん) in Niigata Prefecture. Kawakami's goal was to develop a grape for wine adapted to Japan's climate. He did this by mixing the "Bailey" (ベーリー) type grape with a Black Muscat type grape to give birth to a red wine grape that is widely used in Japan. Also developed by Kawakami was the variety known as "Black Queen" (ブラッククイーン). The characteristics of Muscat Bailey-A are a very grape juice-like flavor and it is most widely used in sweet amakuchi wines. However, in recent years, drier varieties and barrel aged varieties have also been developed. Muscat Bailey-A has been blended with western grapes creating a very full bodied, Bordeaux style flavour. In addition, different blending has led to smoother Bourgogne/Burgundy varieties.

Designation of Origin

"Mark of Origin" (原産地表示, Gensanchi Hyōji) is a system of legal designation for wine produced in Japan, much like France's Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) laws and the United States' American Viticultural Area (AVA) designations.

In Japan there is no nationwide organization of legal designation, regardless of domain of origin or types of grape, anything that is fermented domestically can be labeled as "Japanese wine". Because of this, there are some products labeled as Japanese that are produced using imported grape juice.4

However, independent self-governing municipal bodies have begun systems of regional appellation. For example, Nagano Prefecture's "Appellation Control System" (長野県原産地呼称管理制度, Nagano-ken Gensan-chi Koshō Kanri Seido), and Kōshū's "Wine Domain of Origin Certification Regulation" (ワイン原産地認証条例, Wain Gensan-chi Ninshō Jōrei).

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Viticulture</span> Cultivation and harvesting of grapes

Viticulture, viniculture, or winegrowing is the cultivation and harvesting of grapes. It is a branch of the science of horticulture. While the native territory of Vitis vinifera, the common grape vine, ranges from Western Europe to the Persian shores of the Caspian Sea, the vine has demonstrated high levels of adaptability to new environments, hence viticulture can be found on every continent except Antarctica.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">New World wine</span> Wine produced outside the traditional wine-growing areas of Europe and the Middle East

New World wines are those wines produced outside the traditional winegrowing areas of Europe and the Middle East, in particular from Argentina, Australia, Canada, Chile, Mexico, New Zealand, South Africa and the United States. The phrase connotes a distinction between these "New World" wines and those wines produced in "Old World" countries with a long-established history of wine production, essentially in Europe, most notably: France, Italy, Germany, Spain and Portugal.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Argentine wine</span> Fifth largest producer of wine in the world

Argentina is the fifth largest producer of wine in the world. Argentine wine, as with some aspects of Argentine cuisine, has its roots in colonial Spain, as well in the subsequent large Spanish and Italian immigration which installed its mass consumption. During the Spanish colonization of the Americas, vine cuttings were brought to Santiago del Estero in 1557, and the cultivation of the grape and wine production stretched first to neighboring regions, and then to other parts of the country.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kōshū, Yamanashi</span> City in Chūbu, Japan

Kōshū is a city located in Yamanashi Prefecture, Japan. As of 1 September 2020, the city had an estimated population of 29,659 in 13,141 households, and a population density of 120 persons per km². The total area of the city is 264.11 square kilometres (101.97 sq mi). The city is the home of the indigenous Koshu grape and is synonymous with viticulture and wine production in Japan.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Canadian wine</span> Wine making in Canada

Canadian wine is wine produced in Canada. Ontario and British Columbia are the two largest wine-producing provinces in Canada, with two-thirds of Canada's vineyard acreage situated in Ontario. However, wine producing regions are also present in other provinces, including Alberta, Quebec, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Australian wine</span> Wine making in Australia

The Australian wine industry is one of the world's largest exporters of wine, with approximately 800 million out of the 1.2 to 1.3 billion litres produced annually exported to overseas markets. The wine industry is a significant contributor to the Australian economy through production, employment, export, and tourism.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Israeli wine</span> Overview of wine production in Israel

Israeli wine is produced by hundreds of wineries, ranging in size from small boutique enterprises to large companies producing over ten million bottles per year.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">History of wine</span>

The oldest evidence of ancient wine production has been found in Georgia from c. 6000 BC , Iran from c. 5000 BC, Greece from c. 4500 BC, Armenia from c. 4100 BC, and Sicily from c. 4000 BC. The earliest evidence of fermented alcoholic beverage of rice, honey and fruit, sometimes compared to wine, is claimed in China.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kazakh wine</span> Wine making in Kazakhstan

Kazakh wine is wine made in Kazakhstan. The roots of the Kazakh wine industry can be traced to the 7th century AD when grapevines were brought to the region from neighboring Uzbekistan and China. While only around 4% of the land in Kazakhstan is ideally situated for viticulture, the country does manage to produce over 6.2 million gallons of wine annually from 32,120 acres (13,000 ha). Buoyed by its mineral wealth, the country is an enthusiastic consumer of wine but must import 80% of the 30 m bottles it drinks.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Russian wine</span> Wine making in Russia

Russian wine refers to wine made in Russia, at times also including the disputed region of Crimea. The vast majority of Russia's territory is unsuitable for grape growing, with most of the production concentrated in parts of Krasnodar and Rostov regions, as well as Crimea.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">History of American wine</span>

The history of American wine began when the first Europeans explored parts of North America, which they called Vinland because of the profusion of grape vines found there. However, European settlers, namely the Spanish, would later discover that the wine made from the various native grapes, had flavors which were unfamiliar and which they did not like. This led to repeated efforts to grow familiar Vitis vinifera varieties. The first vines of Vitis vinifera origin came up through New Spain (Mexico) and were planted in Senecu in 1629, which is near the present day town of San Antonio, New Mexico.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Turkish wine</span> Wine making in Turkey

Turkish wine is wine made in the transcontinental Eurasian country Turkey. The Caucasus region, where Armenia, Azerbaijan, Georgia and Iran are located, played a pivotal role in the early history of wine and is likely to have been one of the earliest wine-producing regions of the world.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Indian wine</span> Wine making in India

The modern Indian Wine market is small but growing; annual per capita consumption of wine in the country is a mere 9 millilitres, approximately 1/8000th that of France. The main reason for this can be attributed to the fact that Indians preference for hard liquor and beer boasts nearly 98% of market share whereas wine with low ABV only has 2% market share. The viticulture in India has a long history, dating back to the time of the Indus Valley civilization when grapevines were believed to have been introduced from Persia. Winemaking has existed throughout most of India's history but was particularly encouraged during the time of the Portuguese and British colonization of the subcontinent. The end of the 19th century saw the phylloxera louse take its toll on the Indian wine industry, followed by religious and public opinion moving towards the prohibition. Following the country's independence from the British Empire, the Indian government encouraged vineyards to convert to table grape and raisin production. In the 1980s and 1990s, a revival in the Indian wine industry took place as international influences and the growing middle class started increasing demand for the beverage. By the turn of the 21st century, demand was increasing at a rate of 20-30% a year. The city of Nashik in the state of Maharashtra is called the "Wine Capital of India".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Serbian wine</span> Wine making in Serbia

There are nearly 70,000 hectares of vineyards in Serbia, producing about 425,000 tons of grapes annually. The majority of Serbian wines are produced in local wineries.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">History of South African wine</span> History of wine in South Africa

The early history of the South African wine industry can be traced to the founding of a supply station at the Cape of Good Hope by the Dutch East India Company. Jan van Riebeeck was given the task of managing the station and planting vineyards to produce wine and grapes in the Wijnberg ; that could be used to ward off scurvy for sailors continuing on their voyages along the spice route. In 1685, another Cape Governor, Simon van der Stel, purchased a large 750-hectare (1,900-acre) estate, founding what later became the world-renowned Constantia wine estate. In the 19th century, South Africa fell under British rule which proved lucrative for the wine industry as South African wine flowed into the British market. This prosperity lasted until the 1860s when the Cobden–Chevalier Treaty signed by the Palmerston government and France reduced the preferential tariffs that benefited South African wine in favor of French wine exports.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Egyptian wine</span> Wine making in Egypt

Winemaking has a long tradition in Egypt dating back to the 3rd millennium BC. The modern wine industry is relatively small scale but there have been significant strides towards reviving the industry. In the late nineties the industry invited international expertise in a bid to improve the quality of Egyptian wine, which used to be known for its poor quality. In recent years Egyptian wines have received some recognition, having won several international awards. In 2013 Egypt produced 4,500 tonnes of wine, ranking 54th globally, ahead of Belgium and the United Kingdom.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Koshu (grape)</span> Variety of grape

Koshu is a white wine grape variety that has been grown primarily in the Koshu Valley in Yamanashi Prefecture, Japan. Though long thought to be of exclusively European origin, it is now known to be a hybrid of Europe's Vitis vinifera and one or more East Asian Vitis species. The name “Koshu” is a former name for Yamanashi and the present-day name of the main town in the valley where the majority of Koshu grapes are grown.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jordanian wine</span> Wine making in Jordan

Jordanian wine is produced by two wineries, with an annual production of nearly a million bottles a year. Jordan has a long tradition of wine making, dating as far back as Nabatean times.

Koshu Valley is the informal name for the main wine-producing area of Japan, a valley extending around the town of Koshu in the eastern part of Yamanashi Prefecture. The area comprises the towns of Koshu, Yamanashi and Fuefuki, collectively known as the "Kyōtō Region" (峡東地域). An alternative name for the area is the "Kyōtō Wine Resort" (峡東ワインリゾート), translated into English as the "Yamanashi Wine Resort" to avoid confusion with the city of "Kyoto" which has a similar pronunciation.

Ernest Singer is a winemaker in Japan known for promoting the use of the Koshu grape in Japanese wines. He produced the first Japanese wine approved for import into the EU.

References

  1. 1 2 3 "Overview of Domestic Wine Production (Japanese only)" (PDF). National Tax Agency. February 2019.
  2. 1 2 3 4 5 Robinson, Jancis (1999). The Oxford Companion to Wine. Oxford University Press. pp. 377–380. ISBN   0-19-866236-X.
  3. Gilhooly, Rob (2022-09-12). "Rethinking the ancient origins of Japan's wine industry". The Japan Times. Retrieved 2022-09-13.
  4. "富岡製糸場に行ってみた!明治時代の建築をほぼ当時のまま保存の世界遺産" . Retrieved 2023-07-25.
  5. "シルクの国の明治150年~上州富岡から始まった近代産業の夜明け~" . Retrieved 2023-07-25.
  6. Adams (1870). "Report on the Central Silk Districts of Japan". Presented to Both Houses of Parliament by Command of Her Majesty. 1. London: Harrison and Sons.
  7. "果樹栽培地の歴史的風致 (Japanese only)" (PDF). Koshu City. 2016-12-21.[ permanent dead link ]
  8. Rose, Anthony (2018). Sake and the Wines of Japan. Infinite Ideas Limited. p. 258. ISBN   978-1906821623.
  9. Kiple, Kenneth (2000). The Cambridge World History of Food - Volume 2. Cambridge, England: Cambridge University Press. p. 1182. ISBN   0-521-40215-8.
  10. Robinson, Oxford Companion to Wine, p.380
  11. Johnson, Hugh (2013). World Atlas of Wine (Seventh ed.). London: Octopus Publishing Group. p. 376. ISBN   978-1-84533-689-9.
  12. Murray Brown, Rose (July 12, 2014). "Japanese Wines Hit British Supermarkets". The Scotsman. Retrieved 27 July 2014.
  13. Robinson, Jancis (1999). The Oxford Companion to Wine (Second ed.). Oxford: Oxford University Press. p. 378. ISBN   0-19-866236-X.
  14. "Origins of the Koshu Grape". Koshu Valley. Retrieved 2019-05-27.
  15. Sasaki, Shigeyuki. "Japanese Fruits - Fruits Grown in Japan". Takasago International Corporation. Takasago Corp. Archived from the original on 23 September 2015. Retrieved 23 September 2015.
  16. Koshu of Japan website, page of “About Koshu” Archived 2013-10-19 at the Wayback Machine .
  17. “KOSHU wine gets uncorked abroad”. Felicity Hughes, The Japan Times, Jun 10, 2011
  18. Koshu of Japan website, page of “Taste” Archived 2013-12-06 at the Wayback Machine