A table saw (also known as a sawbench or bench saw in England) is a woodworkingtool, consisting of a circular saw blade, mounted on an arbour, that is driven by an electric motor (either directly, by belt, by cable, or by gears). The blade protrudes through the top of a table, which provides support for the material, usually wood, being cut.
In most modern table saws, the depth of the cut is varied by moving the blade up and down: the higher the blade protrudes above the table, the deeper the cut that is made in the material. In some early table saws, the blade and arbour were fixed, and the table was moved up and down to expose more or less of the blade. The angle of the cut is controlled by adjusting the angle of the blade. Some earlier saws angled the table to control the cut angle.
Types
The general types of table saws are compact, benchtop, job site, contractor, hybrid, cabinet, and sliding table saws.
A table saw patent filed in 1878
Benchtop
Benchtop table saws are lightweight and are designed to be placed on a table or other support for operation. This type of saw is most often used by homeowners and DIYers. They almost always have a direct drive (blade driven directly by the motor) universal motor. Some early models used small induction motors, which weren't very powerful, made the saw heavy, and caused a lot of vibration. Most modern saws can be lifted and carried by one person. These saws often have parts made of steel, aluminium and plastic and are designed to be compact and light.
Benchtop table saws are the least expensive (typically costing in the $100-$200 range) and least capable of the table saws; however, they can offer adequate ripping capacity and precision for most tasks. The universal motor is not as durable or as quiet as an induction motor, but it offers more power relative to its size and weight. The top of a benchtop table saw is narrower than those of the contractors and cabinet saws, so the width of stock that can be ripped is reduced. Another restriction results from the top being smaller from the front of the tabletop to the rear. This results in a shorter rip fence, which makes it harder to make a clean, straight cut when ripping. Also, there is less distance from the front edge of the tabletop to the blade, which makes cross-cutting stock using a mitre more difficult (the mitre and/or stock may not be fully supported by the table in front of the blade). Benchtop saws are the smallest type of table saw and have the least mass, potentially resulting in increased vibration during a cut. Nowadays, these models are being phased out for more practical jobsite model saws.
Jobsite
Jobsite table saws are slightly larger than benchtop models and usually are placed on a folding or stationary stand during operation. These saws are mostly used by carpenters, contractors, and tradesmen on the job site (hence the name). Many of these saws are more expensive than benchtop saws (typically in the $300–$600[clarification needed] range). Most saws in this category have small but powerful 15-ampere universal motors. Many higher-end saws have gear-driven motors. Most of these saws are relatively light and can be easily transported to a job location. Many of these saws are built more ruggedly and are generally more accurate than the entry-level benchtop models. The motors, gears, and cases are generally designed to better withstand the abuse of construction sites. When compared to benchtop saws, many job site models have 3⁄4-inch (19mm) mitre slots, better fences, better overall alignment, sliding extension tables, larger rip capacities, and folding stands with wheels.
Compact
Compact table saws are much larger than portable saws and sit on a stationary stand. The motor is still a universal type motor, however, these are usually driven by small toothed belts. Some saws have cast iron tops, and are similar in appearance to larger contractor saws, although the tables are usually smaller and the build is of lighter construction. Some models even feature sliding-mitre tables, with a built-in miter sled that could be tilted to many different angles.
Contractor
Contractor table saws (also sometimes referred to as open-stand saws) are heavier, larger saws that are attached to a stand or base, often with wheels. On these saws, the motor (Usually a 1 to 2hp[0.75 to 1.49kW]induction-type motor) hinges off the rear of the saw on a pivoting bracket (although direct drive models have existed) and drives the blade with one, or rarely, two rubber v-belts. [1] This is the type often used by hobbyists and homeowners because standard electrical circuits provide adequate power to run them, and because of their generally low cost when compared to larger saws. Because the motor hangs off the rear of the saw, dust collection is usually problematic or even ineffective.
Contractor saws were originally designed to be somewhat portable, often having wheels, and were frequently brought to job sites before the invention of smaller bench-top models in the early 1980s. Contractor saws are heavier than bench-top saws but are still lightweight when compared to cabinet saws.[2] Their larger size and greater power allows them to be used for larger projects and allows them to be more durable, accurate, and longer-lasting then bench-top saws.
Cabinet
Cabinet table saws are heavy, using large amounts of cast iron and steel, to minimize vibration and increase accuracy.
A cabinet saw is characterized by having an enclosed base. Cabinet saws usually have induction motors in the 3-to-5hp (2.2-to-3.7kW) range, single-phase, but motors in the 5-to-7.5hp (3.7-to-5.6kW) range, three-phase, are common in commercial/industrial sites. For home use, this type of motor typically requires that a heavy-duty circuit be installed. The motor is enclosed within the cabinet and drives the blade with one or more parallel V-belts, often "A" belts as "A" belts may be ganged without having to be specially selected (otherwise, specially selected sets of light-duty "4L" belts are used). Cabinet saws offer the following advantages over contractor saws: heavier construction for lower vibration and increased durability; a cabinet-mounted trunnion (the mechanism that incorporates the saw blade mount and allows for height and tilt adjustment); improved dust collection due to the enclosed cabinet and common incorporation of a dust collection port. Cabinet saws are designed for and are capable of very high-duty cycles, such as are encountered in commercial/industrial applications. Where some of the advantages of a cabinet saw are desired in a home shop application, so-called "hybrid" saws have emerged to address this need.
Cabinet saws have an easily replaceable insert around the blade in the table top allowing the use of zero-clearance inserts, which greatly reduce tear out on the bottom of the workpiece. It is common for this type of saw to be equipped with a table extension that increases ripping capacity for sheet goods to 50 inches (1.3m). These saws are characterized by a cast iron top on a full-length steel base, generally square in section, with radiused corners. Two 3⁄4-inch-wide (19mm) mitre slots (1 inch [25mm] wide on the largest saws) are located parallel to the blade, one to the left of the blade and one to the right.
American-style cabinet saws generally follow the model of the Delta Unisaw, a design that has evolved since 1939.[3][4] Saws of this general type are made in the US, Canada, Taiwan and China. The most common type of rip fence mounted to this type of saw is characterized by the standard model made by Biesemeyer (now a subsidiary of Delta). It has a sturdy, steel T-type fence mounted to a steel rail at the front of the saw and replaceable laminate faces. American cabinet saws are normally designed to accept a 13⁄16-inch-wide (21mm) stacked dado blade in addition to a standard saw blade. The most common size of the blade is 10 inches (250mm) in diameter with a blade arbour diameter of 5⁄8 inch (16mm), but 12 or 14 inches (300 or 360mm) in diameter with a blade arbour diameter of 1 inch (25mm) are found in commercial/industrial sites. American saws normally include an anti-kickback device that incorporates a splitter or riving knife, toothed anti-kickback pawls, and a clear plastic blade cover. The saw blade can tilt to either the left side or right side of the saw, depending on the model of the saw. The original Delta Unisaw and early cabinet saws based on it are all right-tilt units while newer Delta Unisaws and many competitive cabinet saws made after 2000 are left-tilt saws. The change to left-tilt was due to a lower perceived propensity for the cut piece to become trapped between the rip fence and blade and kick back when the blade tilts away from the rip fence (left-tilt saw) versus towards the rip fence (right-tilt saw.)[5]
While conceptually simple in design, these saws are highly evolved and are capable of efficient, high-volume, precision work.
Hybrid
Hybrid table saws are designed to compete in the market with high-end contractor table saws. They offer some of the advantages of cabinet saws at a lower price than traditional cabinet saws. Hybrid saws on the market today offer an enclosed cabinet to help improve dust collection. The cabinet can either be similar to a cabinet saw with a full enclosure from the tabletop to the floor or a shorter cabinet on the legs. Some hybrid saws have cabinet-mounted trunnions and some have table-mounted trunnions. In general, cabinet-mounted trunnions are easier to adjust than table-mounted trunnions. Hybrid saws tend to be heavier than contractor saws and lighter than cabinet saws. Some hybrid saws offer a sliding table as an option to improve cross-cutting capability. Hybrid saw drive mechanisms vary more than contractor saws and cabinet saws. Drive mechanisms can be a single v-belt, a serpentine belt or multiple v-belts. Hybrid saws have a 1.5-or-2hp (1.1-or-1.5kW) motor and thus the ability to run on a standard 15- or 20-ampere 120-volt North American household circuit, while a cabinet saw's 3hp (2.2kW) or larger motor requires a 240-volt supply.
Mini and micro
A 1-inch (25 mm) micro table saw.
Mini and micro table saws have a blade diameter of 4 inches (100mm) and under. Mini table saws are typically 4 inches, while micro table saws are less than 4 inches, although the naming of the saws is not well defined.
Mini and micro table saws are generally used by hobbyists and model builders, although the mini table saws (4-inch) have gained some popularity with building contractors that need only a small saw to cut small pieces (such as wood trim). Being a fraction of the size (and weight) of a normal table saw, they are much easier to carry and transport.
Being much smaller than a normal table saw, they are substantially safer to use when cutting very small pieces. Using blades that have a smaller kerf (cutting width) than normal blades, there is less material lost and the possibility of kickback is reduced as well.
Sliding
A sliding table saw, also called a European cabinet saw or panel saw, is a variation of the traditional cabinet saw. They are generally used to cut large panels and sheet goods, such as plywood or MDF. Sliding table saws have a sliding table on the left side of the blade, usually attached to a folding arm mounted under the table, that is used for cross-cutting and ripping larger materials. Sliding table saws are the largest type of table saw, and are mostly used by large production cabinet shops. Most saws use 3–5 or even 7hp three-phase induction motors. Sliding table saws usually incorporate a riving knife to prevent kickback from occurring.
Sliding saws sometimes offer a scoring blade, which is a second, smaller diameter blade mounted in front of the regular saw blade. The scoring blade helps reduce splintering of the lower face in certain types of stock, especially laminated stock. European models are sometimes available in multi-purpose tool configurations (Combination machine) that offer jointer, planer, shaper(Spindle moulder in Europe) or boring features. The blade arbor typically has a diameter of 30mm, around twice that of a US saw. Many American woodworkers are likely to use a dado stack or wobble dado to cut dados (square sectioned grooves), while most European woodworkers would use a shaper or a router table for this task.
In recent years, European-style sliding table saws have had a small following in North America. They are usually either imported from European manufacturers such as Felder and its subsidiaries, Altendorf and Robland, Taiwanese companies such as Grizzly Industrial or sold directly by U.S. companies such as Powermatic.
A European sliding table saw
History
In the United States, perhaps the first recorded patent for the circular saw was issued in 1777 to an Englishman, Samuel Miller; it refers to a circular saw that was created in Holland in the 16th or 17th century.[6] The 1885 catalog of the W.F. & John Barnes Co., Rockford, Il. clearly shows a classic table saw and it is labelled as a "Hand [Powered] Circular Rip Saw".
Safety
Table saws are especially dangerous tools because the operator holds the material being cut, instead of the saw, making it easy to accidentally move hands into the spinning blade. When using other types of circular saws, the material remains stationary, as the operator guides the saw into the material. But a push stick, riving knife, and a protective cover over the spinning saw can reduce the chances of an accident.[7]
Kickback
Kickback is the term for when a piece of wood is ripped, and either pinches the blade or turns outward against the blade of the spinning saw and is propelled back towards the operator at a high speed. The two main injuries that occur from kickback are caused by wood striking the head, chest, or torso of the operator, or the wood moving so quickly that the operator's hands stay on the wood and get pulled across the saw blade.
Dust extractor
A dust extractor should be fitted if sawdust is prone to build up under the cutting blade. Through friction, the spinning blade will quickly ignite the accumulated dust, and the smoke can be mistaken for an overheated blade. [disputed–discuss] The extractor also reduces the risk of a dust explosion and facilitates a healthier working environment.
Magnetic featherboard
The magnetic feather board was developed in 1990.[8] The patented Grip-Tite is held to a cast iron table top or steel sub fence by high strength permanent magnets. The advantage of a magnetic feather board is the fast setup time on any cast iron tool deck or steel-faced fence. When used in conjunction with a steel-faced rip fence, they are used to hold down ripped wood on any saw deck and prevent kickback. Feed wheels added to the Grip-Tite base pull ripped wood to the fence, allowing the operator to rip wood on any table saw with no hands near the blade.
Miter slot featherboard
When a table saw has a tabletop made of a material other than cast iron, like aluminium, then a mitre slot featherboard should be utilized to keep pressure on the stock against the fence when otherwise your hand would be in dangerous proximity to the saw blade. Keep in mind that this style of feather board does take more time to set up than the magnetic style when deciding on a tool purchase. If a safety device is more convenient then it may be more frequently utilized. Never place a feather board past the leading edge of the blade or else kickback will occur.[9]
Blade height
Ideally the blade of the table saw should extend higher than the board being cut by about a quarter of an inch (7.5 mm); this lessens the risk of kickback and other injuries and enables smooth cutting.
There are two competing schools of thought when it comes to properly setting the height of the blade for sawing. The first is commonly expressed thus:[citation needed] "Only allow the blade to rise above the work by the amount of finger you wish to lose." That is, the blade should protrude above the piece as little as possible, to prevent the loss of a finger in case of a sawing accident.
Another competing view is that the saw functions at its best when the angle of the blade teeth arc relative to the top surface of the workpiece is as extreme as possible.[citation needed] This facilitates chip ejection, shortens the overall distance through which the teeth act on the part, reduces power consumption and heat generation, substantially reduces the peak pushing force required, thus improving control, and causes the blade's force on the wood to act mostly downward rather than largely horizontally.
Materials cut on table saws
Although the majority of table saws are used for cutting wood, table saws can also be used for cutting sheet plastic, sheet aluminium and sheet brass.
Accessories
Outfeed tables: Table saws are often used to rip long boards or sheets of plywood or other sheet materials. The use of an outfeed (or outfeed) table makes this process safer and easier. Many of these are shop-built, while others are commercially available.
Infeed tables: Used to assist in feeding long boards or sheets of plywood. In the past roller stands were pretty much the only option, but there are now commercially available infeed units that are more efficient and easier to use.
Downdraft tables: Used to draw harmful dust particles away from the user without obstructing the user's movement or productivity.
Rip fence: Table saws commonly have a fence (guide) running from the front of the table (the side nearest the operator) to the back, parallel to the cutting plane of the blade. The distance of the fence from the blade can be adjusted, which determines where on the workpiece the cut is made. The fence is commonly called a "rip fence" referring to its use in guiding the workpiece during the process of making a rip cut. Most table saws come standard with a rip fence, but some high-end saws are available without a fence so a fence of the user's choice can be purchased separately.
Featherboard: Featherboards are used to keep wood against the rip fence. They can be a single spring, or many springs, as made from wood in many shops. They are held in place by high-strength magnets, clamps, or expansion bars in the mitre slot.
Hold down: The circular sawblade of a table saw will pick up a piece of wood if not held down. Hold downs can be a vertical version of featherboards, attached to a fence with magnets or clamps. Another type of hold-down uses wheels on a spring-loaded mechanism to push down on a workpiece as it is guided past the blade.
Sub fence: A piece of wood clamped to the rip fence allows a dado set to cut into the rip fence, allowing rabbet cuts with a dado blade.
Miter gauge: The table has one or two slots (grooves) running from front to back, also parallel to the cutting plane of the blade. These mitre slots (or mitre grooves) are used to position and guide either a mitre gauge (also known as a crosscut fence) or crosscut sled. The mitre gauge is usually set to be at 90 degrees to the plane of the blade's cut, to cause the cut made in the workpiece to be made at a right angle. The mitre gauge can also be adjusted to cause the cut to be made at a precisely controlled angle (a so-called mitre cut).
Crosscut sled: A crosscut sled is generally used to hold the workpiece at a fixed 90-degree angle to the blade, allowing precise repeatable cuts at the most commonly used angle. The sled is normally guided by a runner fastened under it that slides in a mitre slot. This device is normally shop-made but can be purchased.
Tenon jig: A tenon jig is a device that holds the workpiece vertically so cuts can be made across the end. This allows tenons to be formed. Often this is a purchased item, but it can be shop-made. The tenon jig is guided by a mitre slot or a fence.
Stacked dado: Saws made for the US market are generally capable of using a stacked dado blade set. This is a kit with two outer blades and several inner "chip breakers" that can be used to cut dados (grooves in the workpiece) of any width up to the maximum (generally 13⁄16in[21mm]). Stacked dado sets are available in diameters of 6,8 and 10 inches (150,200 and 250mm). 8- and 10-inch stacked dado sets are not recommended for saws with 1+1⁄2 horsepower (1.1kW) or less. Although 10-inch stacked dado sets are available with a 5⁄8-inch (16mm) bore, these are recommended with a 1-inch (25mm) bore.
Inserts: Table saws have a changeable insert in the table through which the blade projects. Purchasable inserts are usually made out of metal. Zero-clearance inserts can be made of a sawable material such as plastic or wood. When a zero-clearance insert is initially inserted, the blade is raised through the insert creating the slot. This creates a slot with no gaps around the blade. The zero clearance insert helps prevent tear-out by providing support for wood fibres right next to the blade thus helping to make a very clean cut. Other inserts can be bought or created in the same manner, such as a dado insert.
Splitter: A splitter or riving knife is a vertical projection located behind the saw blade. This can be a pin or a fin. It is slightly narrower in width than the blade and located directly in line with the blade. The splitter prevents the material being cut from being rotated thereby helping to prevent kickback. Splitters may incorporate pawls, a mechanism with teeth designed to bite into the wood and prevent kickback. Splitters can take many forms, including being part of the blade guard that comes standard with the saw. Another type of splitter is simply a vertical pin or fin attached to an insert. Splitters are available commercially or can be made from wood, metal or plastic.
Anti-kickback pawls: Most modern US table saws are fitted with kickback pawls, a set of small spring-loaded metal teeth on a free-swinging pawl (usually attached to the guard) which help to put a strong downward force on a board. This can help to immobilize the board in the event of a kickback. However, these have sometimes been found to be somewhat ineffective when compared to a splitter.
Push stick: A handheld safety device used to safely maneuver a workpiece, keeping it flat against the machine table and fence while it is being cut.
Related Research Articles
The router is a power tool with a flat base and a rotating blade extending past the base. The spindle may be driven by an electric motor or by a pneumatic motor. It routs an area in hard material, such as wood or plastic. Routers are used most often in woodworking, especially cabinetry. They may be handheld or affixed to router tables. Some woodworkers consider the router one of the most versatile power tools.
A circular saw is a power-saw using a toothed or abrasive disc or blade to cut different materials using a rotary motion spinning around an arbor. A hole saw and ring saw also use a rotary motion but are different from a circular saw. Circular saws may also be loosely used for the blade itself. Circular saws were invented in the late 18th century and were in common use in sawmills in the United States by the middle of the 19th century.
A saw is a tool consisting of a tough blade, wire, or chain with a hard toothed edge used to cut through material. Various terms are used to describe toothed and abrasive saws.
A hand plane is a tool for shaping wood using muscle power to force the cutting blade over the wood surface. Some rotary power planers are motorized power tools used for the same types of larger tasks, but are unsuitable for fine-scale planing, where a miniature hand plane is used.
A try square or try-square is a woodworking tool used for marking and checking 90° angles on pieces of wood. Though woodworkers use many different types of square, the try square is considered one of the essential tools for woodworking.
A radial arm saw is a cutting machine consisting of a circular saw mounted on a sliding horizontal arm. Invented by Raymond DeWalt in 1922, the radial arm saw was the primary tool used for cutting long pieces of stock to length until the introduction of the power miter saw in the 1970s.
A panel saw is any type of sawing machine that cuts sheets into sized parts.
A bandsaw is a power saw with a long, sharp blade consisting of a continuous band of toothed metal stretched between two or more wheels to cut material. They are used principally in woodworking, metalworking, and lumbering, but may cut a variety of materials. Advantages include uniform cutting action as a result of an evenly distributed tooth load, and the ability to cut irregular or curved shapes like a jigsaw. The minimum radius of a curve is determined by the width of the band and its kerf. Most bandsaws have two wheels rotating in the same plane, one of which is powered, although some may have three or four to distribute the load. The blade itself can come in a variety of sizes and tooth pitches, which enables the machine to be highly versatile and able to cut a wide variety of materials including wood, metal and plastic.
A biscuit joiner or biscuit jointer is a woodworking tool used to join two pieces of wood together. A biscuit joiner uses a small circular saw blade to cut a crescent-shaped hole in the opposite edges of two pieces of wood or wood composite panels. An oval-shaped, highly dried and compressed wooden biscuit is covered with glue, or glue is applied in the slot. The biscuit is immediately placed in the slot, and the two boards are clamped together. The wet glue expands the biscuit, further improving the bond.
A miter saw or mitre saw is a saw used to make accurate crosscuts and miters in a workpiece by positioning a mounted blade onto a board. A miter saw in its earliest form was composed of a back saw in a miter box, but in modern implementation consists of a powered circular saw that can be positioned at a variety of angles and lowered onto a board positioned against a backstop called the fence.
A wood shaper, is a stationary woodworking machine in which a vertically oriented spindle drives one or more stacked cutter heads to mill profiles on wood stock.
A scroll saw is a small electric or pedal-operated saw used to cut intricate curves in wood, metal, or other materials. The fineness of its blade allows it to cut more delicately than a power jigsaw, and more easily than a hand coping saw or fretsaw. Like those tools, it is capable of creating curves with edges, by pivoting its table.
A mitre box or miter box is a wood working appliance used to guide a hand saw for making precise cuts, usually 45° mitre cuts. Traditional mitre boxes are simple in construction and made of wood, while adjustable mitre boxes are made of metal and can be adjusted for cutting any angle from 45° to 90°.
A bench hook is a workbench appliance used in woodworking to hold a workpiece in place while crosscutting with a hand saw. A bench hook is a simple method used to improve accuracy and safety.
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This glossary of woodworking lists a number of specialized terms and concepts used in woodworking, carpentry, and related disciplines.
A riving knife is a safety device installed on a table saw, circular saw, or radial arm saw used for woodworking. Attached to the saw's arbor, it is fixed relative to the blade and moves with it as blade depth is adjusted.
A fence is a part of many woodworking tools; it is typically used to guide or secure a workpiece while it is being sawn, planed, routed or marked. Fences play an important role for both accuracy and safety. Fences are usually straight and vertical, and made from metal, wood or plastic.
A computer numerical control (CNC) router is a computer-controlled cutting machine which typically mounts a hand-held router as a spindle which is used for cutting various materials, such as wood, composites, metals, plastics, glass, and foams. CNC routers can perform the tasks of many carpentry shop machines such as the panel saw, the spindle moulder, and the boring machine. They can also cut joinery such as mortises and tenons.
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