Miss Delta | |
---|---|
Restaurant information | |
Established | 2007 |
Owner(s) | Marcus Oliver |
Previous owner(s) |
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Food type | |
Street address | 3950 North Mississippi Avenue |
City | Portland |
State | Oregon |
Postal/ZIP Code | 97227 |
Country | United States |
Coordinates | 45°33′5.9″N122°40′31.1″W / 45.551639°N 122.675306°W |
Website | missdeltapdx |
Miss Delta is a Southern restaurant in Portland, Oregon. [1] [2] Anastasia Corya and Anton Pace opened the restaurant in 2007, and later sold the business to Marcus Oliver, who expanded the Cajun and Creole-menu to include barbecue.
The Southern restaurant Miss Delta, located in the north Portland part of the Boise neighborhood, serves brunch, lunch, and dinner. [3] According to John Chandler of Portland Monthly , the restaurant "is the slightly-less-thrift-store-funky offspring of the original Delta Cafe on SE Woodstock, a joint that earned its rep by dropping huge platters of Southern cooking on its customers for embarrassingly small sums of money". [4] The Portland Mercury 's Alison Hallett described Miss Delta as a "well-designed little space" with wood floors, exposed brick walls, and "quirky" light fixtures "that suffuse the place with a bourbon-y hue create an atmosphere redolent with both Southern gentility and North Portland chic". [5]
The Cajun and Creole-influenced [6] menu has included barbecue, [7] biscuits and gravy, [8] catfish sandwiches, [9] cauliflower casserole, chicken and waffles, [10] cornbread muffins, fried okra, hushpuppies, gumbo, and po'boys. [11] [12] The Trashy Mac is macaroni and cheese with smoked chicken and pesto, jambalaya, or gumbo. [13] [14] [15] The Meat Sweats is a platter of andouille, brisket, blackened chicken, pulled pork, and spare ribs. [11] Sides have included coleslaw, collards, mashed potatoes with chicken sausage gravy, and red beans and rice. [16] The dessert menu has included marionberry cobbler, sweet potato pie, and Milky Way cake (dark chocolate cake with chunks of Milky Way candy and caramel). [6]
Anastasia Corya and Anton Pace, who previously opened the Delta Cafe in 1995, opened Miss Delta in August 2007. [6] Previously, the space had housed Pasta Bangs. [17] Marcus Oliver later became the owner. [18] He purchased the restaurant and expanded the mostly Cajun/Creole menu to include barbecue. [19]
In 2013, Michael Russell of The Oregonian called Miss Delta a "one-time spinoff of ... cult favorite Delta Cafe" and said the restaurant "has seemed to change hands more times than the Mississippi River has tributaries". [16] Like many restaurants, the business experienced difficulties during the COVID-19 pandemic, including staffing issues and temporary closures. [20] [21] In 2021, Oliver's book Cool and Kooky Kids Coloring Cookbook was sold at the restaurant. [22]
In his 2007 review of Miss Delta, Tim LaBarge of The Oregonian wrote, "Don't let the lighthearted interior fool you: Miss Delta is a place for serious eating and Southern comfort." [23] The newspaper's Grant Butler called the fried chicken "stellar" and said the "sides are good across the board". [24] In 2008, Butler said the restaurant "captures the essence of Southern cooking in all its cast-iron glory. Whether it's perfect black-eyed pea fritters or spicy jambalaya with hot sausage, smoked chicken and shrimp, dishes have a calories-be-damned approach. Portions are so large they have their own gravitational pull: The thing separating comfort from extreme discomfort is your own self-control." [25] [26]
Cajun cuisine is a style of cooking developed by the Cajun–Acadians who were deported from Acadia to Louisiana during the 18th century and who incorporated West African, French and Spanish cooking techniques into their original cuisine.
The cuisine of the Southern United States encompasses diverse food traditions of several subregions, including Tidewater, Appalachian, Ozarks, Lowcountry, Cajun, Creole, African American Cuisine and Floribbean cuisine. In recent history, elements of Southern cuisine have spread to other parts of the United States, influencing other types of American cuisine.
Louisiana Creole cuisine is a style of cooking originating in Louisiana, United States, which blends West African, French, Spanish, and Native American influences, as well as influences from the general cuisine of the Southern United States.
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Selecting a fish dish was trickier, but we chose the catfish from Miss Delta. Located in the middle of a fun strip of Mississippi Avenue, the two things you notice instantly about Miss Delta is that it is hideously noisy even when only half full and that it's incredibly textural with its array of Victorian-inspired hanging lamps, exposed brick wall, tin ceiling-panel decorated open kitchen, and slippery vinyl banquettes complete with tears and crumbs. But forget all that, because you're there for the deep-fried catfish. Miss Delta avoids the fatty, oily taste catfish sometimes suffers from. Instead, it has a succulent interior and honey-colored crust. Unfortunately, this excellent fish comes with two overcooked sides of your choice. The rice in the beans and rice is mushy and the beans have all but lost their integrity. The overly wet mashed potatoes have been pureed into something between mush and soup. Even the pasta in the mac and cheese was downright limp. However, all is not completely lost. Even with the mushy pasta, we found ourselves compulsively picking out and devouring the tasty browned, cheesy bits that had baked to a crisp on top of the mac and cheese. So, just for those tasty morsels, we'd opt for the mac and cheese.
Miss Delta, which really does Cajun-inspired fare justice, is firing on all cylinders when it comes to chicken and waffles. Miss Delta uses boneless breasts for fried chicken, which isn't the most authentically Southern preparation, but it's just so dang good that I didn't care. The cuts of chicken are thin enough that you get a good taste of perfectly executed buttermilk batter in every bite — it's crispy, just a little spicy and decadent without being overwhelmingly so. The waffle is just as good: lightly crispy and buttery, accompanied by delicious praline butter and classic maple syrup. The effect makes you understand why this seemingly odd dish was invented in the first place.
The restaurant, which earlier this year took over the space that had been Pasta Bangs, is from the original owners of the Woodstock neighborhood's Delta Cafe. While that spot has experienced a quality slide in recent years, Miss Delta recaptures the magic.
Don't let the lighthearted interior fool you: Miss Delta is a place for serious eating and Southern comfort.
Miss Delta: This new restaurant offering the dishes of the Deep South is from the original owners of the Delta Cafe. While that spot has experienced a quality slide in recent years, Miss Delta recaptures the magic. Start out with addictive fried okra --with crispness that overcomes the sliminess that some people find off-putting. Or dig into golf-ball-sized hush puppies, perfectly fried balls of cornmeal dough studded with finely minced bits of jalapeno. Main dishes are hearty and meat-centric, ranging from bowls of spicy, shrimp-studded gumbos and jambalayas to a mammoth plate of barbecued pork spare ribs. Don't miss the stellar fried chicken, at once crunchy and juicy. Sides are good across the board.
Miss Delta, which opened last year on bustling North Mississippi Avenue's dining strip, captures the essence of Southern cooking in all its cast-iron glory. Whether it's perfect black-eyed pea fritters or spicy jambalaya with hot sausage, smoked chicken and shrimp, dishes have a calories-be-damned approach. Portions are so large they have their own gravitational pull: The thing separating comfort from extreme discomfort is your own self-control. That's why there's a treadmill at your gym. Use it. Eat and drink: Hush puppies full of jalapeno bits; cornmeal-crusted fried okra; shrimp gumbo; barbecue pork spareribs; fried chicken, with a leg and plump breast lightly battered, crunchy and juicy; sides like buttery mashed potatoes, macaroni and cheese, or collard greens with bits of pork, so good you could make a meal of them alone; flaky-crusted homemade apple and marionberry pies. Classic Southern cocktails like Sazeracs and Old-Fashioneds mingle with inventions like the "farmer's daughter" --muddled cucumber, vodka and cranberry juice. Reality check: It's almost always packed, and the only place to wait for a table is a dreary hallway back by the bathrooms.