Tex-Mex

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Examples of modern Tex-Mex dishes and ingredients: corn, tortilla chips, cheese, tacos, salsa, chilies, and beef dishes CornmealProducts.jpg
Examples of modern Tex-Mex dishes and ingredients: corn, tortilla chips, cheese, tacos, salsa, chilies, and beef dishes

Tex-Mex cuisine (derived from the words Texas and Mexico ) is a regional American cuisine that originates from the culinary creations of Tejano people (Texans of Spanish Creole heritage). It has spread from border states such as Texas and others in the Southwestern United States to the rest of the country. It is a subtype of Southwestern cuisine [1] [2] [3] found in the American Southwest.

Contents

Common dishes

"Preparing plates of tortillas and fried beans to sell to pecan shellers, San Antonio, Texas" by Russell Lee, March 1939 Selling baked beans and tortillas.jpg
"Preparing plates of tortillas and fried beans to sell to pecan shellers, San Antonio, Texas" by Russell Lee, March 1939

Some ingredients in Tex-Mex cuisine are also common in Mexican cuisine, but others, not often used in Mexico, are often added, such as the use of cumin, introduced by Spanish immigrants to Texas from the Canary Islands, [4] but used in only a few central Mexican recipes.

Tex-Mex cuisine is characterized by its heavy use of shredded cheese, beans, meat (particularly chicken, beef, and pork), chili peppers, and spices, in addition to flour tortillas.

Sometimes various Tex-Mex dishes are made without the use of a tortilla. A common example of this is the "fajita bowl", which is a fajita served without a soft tortilla.

Generally, cheese plays a much bigger role in Tex-Mex food than in mainstream Mexican cuisine, particularly in the popularity of chile con queso (often referred to as simply "queso"), which is often eaten with tortilla chips (alongside or in place of guacamole and salsa), or may be served over enchiladas, tamales, or burritos. [5]

Nachos, although invented in the US-Mexico border town of Piedras Negras, Coahuila, became extremely popular in Texas before spreading across the US. They were named after its inventor, Nacho Anaya.

Tex-Mex circa the 1950s relied on combination platters using American-style cheeses, did not often have margaritas, and involved pecans in desserts. [6]

History

Chili with garnishes and tortilla chips Chili with garnishes and tortilla chips.jpg
Chili with garnishes and tortilla chips
Original Ninfa's tacos al carbon/fajitas Ninfasfajitameat.jpg
Original Ninfa's tacos al carbón/fajitas

The cuisine that would come to be called Tex-Mex originated with Tejanos (Texans of Mexican descent) as a mix of native Mexican and Spanish foods when Texas was part of New Spain and later Mexico.

Fajitas, wheat tortillas as taco wraps Fajitas Wraps.JPG
Fajitas, wheat tortillas as taco wraps
Bowl containing Chili con carne served in a Tex-Mex style, with pork, beef, cheddar and monterey jack on top. Chili-con-carne.jpg
Bowl containing Chili con carne served in a Tex-Mex style, with pork, beef, cheddar and monterey jack on top.

From the South Texas region between San Antonio, the Rio Grande Valley and El Paso, this cuisine has had little variation, and from earliest times has always been influenced by the cooking in the neighboring northern states of Mexico. [7]

The ranching culture of South Texas and Northern Mexico straddles both sides of the border, where beef, grilled food, and tortillas have been common and popular foods for more than a century. [7]

A taste for cabrito (kid goat), barbacoa de cabeza (barbecued beef heads), carne seca (dried beef), and other products of cattle culture is also common on both sides of the Rio Grande.

In the 20th century, as goods from the United States became cheap and readily available, Tex-Mex took on such Americanized elements as Cheddar, jack, and pimento cheeses.

In much of Texas, the cooking styles on both sides of the U.S.-Mexico border were the same until a period after the U.S. Civil War. With the railroads, American ingredients and cooking appliances became common on the U.S. side. [8]

Around the 1970s the composition of dishes popular in Tex Mex changed; Ninfa's popularized the fajita beginning in 1973. [6]

A 1968 Los Angeles Times feature wrote "[i]f the dish is a combination of Old World cooking, hush-my-mouth Southern cuisine and Tex-Mex, it's from the Texas Hill Country." [9]

Outside the US

Zarillo Western & Tex Mex restaurant in Tampere, Finland Zarillo Western & Tex Mex Puutarhakatu 8.jpg
Zarillo Western & Tex Mex restaurant in Tampere, Finland

In France, Paris's first Tex-Mex restaurant opened in March 1983. [10] According to restaurateur Claude Benayoun, business had been slow, but after the 1986 release of the film Betty Blue , which featured characters drinking tequila shots and eating chili con carne , "everything went crazy." [10] According to Benayoun, "Betty Blue was like our Easy Rider ; it was unbelievably popular in France. And after the movie came out, everybody in Paris wanted a shot of tequila and a bowl of chili." [10]

Tex-Mex became widely introduced in the Nordic countries and the United Kingdom in the early 1990s through brands like Old El Paso and Santa Maria, and very quickly became a staple meal in the Nordics. [11] Minor local variations on Tex-Mex in these areas are to use gouda cheese, or to substitute taco shells with stuffed pita breads. Previously, Tex-Mex had been sold on a limited scale in Stavanger, Norway since the late 1960s. [12]

Tex-Mex has also spread to Canada, where it has become as naturalized as in the United States. The cuisine is also readily found in Argentina, India, Japan, Mexico, the Netherlands, Thailand, and many other countries. [10]

Terminology

Ingredients commonly used in Tex-Mex cuisine Tex Mex Time.jpg
Ingredients commonly used in Tex-Mex cuisine
Nachos with guacamole Nachos with Guacamole.jpg
Nachos with guacamole

The word "TexMex" (unhyphenated) was first used to abbreviate the Texas Mexican Railway, chartered in southern Texas in 1875. [13] In the 1920s, the hyphenated form was used in American newspapers to describe Texans of Mexican ancestry. [13] [14]

The Oxford English Dictionary supplies the first-known uses in print of "Tex-Mex" in reference to food, from a 1963 article in The New York Times Magazine , and a 1966 item in the Great Bend (Kansas) Tribune. [15]

However, the term was used in an article in the Binghamton (New York) Press [16] in May 1960 and a syndicated article appearing in several American newspapers on October 6, 1960, uses the Tex-Mex label to describe a series of recipes, including chili and enchiladas. [17]

The recipes included the suggestion of "cornmeal pancakes" in place of tortillas, which at the time were not reliably available to readers outside of the Southwest.

Diana Kennedy, an influential food authority, explained the distinctions between Mexican cuisine and Americanized Mexican food in her 1972 book The Cuisines of Mexico . Robb Walsh of the Houston Press said the book "was a breakthrough cookbook, one that could have been written only by a non-Mexican. It unified Mexican cooking by transcending the nation's class divisions and treating the food of the poor with the same respect as the food of the upper classes." [18]

The term "Tex-Mex" also saw increasing usage in the Los Angeles Times from the 1970s onward while the Tex-Mex label became a part of U.S. vernacular during the late 1960s, '70s, and '80s. [19] Adán Medrano, a chef who grew up in San Antonio, prefers to call the food "Texas Mexican," which he says was the indigenous cooking of South Texas long before the Rio Grande marked the border between Texas and Mexico. [20]

Influential chefs

Born in 1905, Tijerina began working as a busboy at the Original Mexican Restaurant after moving to Houston in 1922. [21] He rose through the ranks and opened his restaurant, the Mexican Inn, in 1929. [21]
After serving in World War II, Tijerina opened a chain of restaurants named the Felix Mexican Restaurant. [22]
With mildly-spiced dishes and reasonable prices, Tijerina's restaurants catered more towards an Anglo audience. [21] His spaghetti con chile special exemplifies how Tijerina americanized traditional Mexican food to appeal to the local Texans. [21]
Tijerina used his influence and economic profit from the restaurant business to become active in politics. [21] In 1935, Tijerina joined the local council of LULAC (League of United Latin American Citizens), and eventually became the national president of the organization, holding the position from 1956 to 1960. [21]
Tijerina died in 1965, but his chain of Felix Mexican Restaurants continued to promote Tex-Mex cuisine until operations stopped in 2008. [22] [23]
In 2011, Centeno opened his first restaurant, Bäco Mercat which became an instant success due to the multicultural menu. [25]
Centeno subsequently opened Bar Amá, [26] then Orsa & Winston [27] which received a Michelin star in June 2019.
Centeno's most recent Tex-Mex restaurant, Amácita, [28] opened in July 2019. [29]
Centeno has also written two cookbooks: Baco: Vivid Recipes from the Heart of Los Angeles (2017) [30] and Amá: a modern Tex-Mex kitchen (2019). [31]
Centeno has become a leading chef in Tex-Mex cuisine, receiving praise for both his restaurants and his cookbooks. While the New Yorker listed Centeno's Amá: a modern Tex-Mex kitchen as one of the best cookbooks in 2019, the LA Times named Orsa & Winston as the "Restaurant of the Year" in 2020. [32] [25] His restaurants, the Bar Amá and the Amácita, have been described as "the country's most thoughtful Tex-Mex". [33]

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mexican cuisine</span> Culinary traditions of Mexico

Mexican cuisine consists of the cooking cuisines and traditions of the modern country of Mexico. Its earliest roots lie in Mesoamerican cuisine. Its ingredients and methods begin with the first agricultural communities such as the Olmec and Maya who domesticated maize, created the standard process of nixtamalization, and established their foodways. Successive waves of other Mesoamerican groups brought with them their cooking methods. These included: the Teotihuacanos, Toltec, Huastec, Zapotec, Mixtec, Otomi, Purépecha, Totonac, Mazatec, Mazahua, and Nahua. With the Mexica formation of the multi-ethnic Triple Alliance, culinary foodways became infused.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Enchilada</span> Corn tortilla rolled around a filling and covered with a sauce

An enchilada is a Mexican dish consisting of a corn tortilla rolled around a filling and covered with a savory sauce. Enchiladas can be filled with various ingredients, including meats, cheese, beans, potatoes, vegetables, or combinations. Enchilada sauces include chili-based sauces, such as salsa roja, various moles, tomatillo-based sauces, such as salsa verde, or cheese-based sauces, such as chile con queso.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Fajita</span> Tex–Mex dish

A fajita, in Tex-Mex cuisine, is any stripped grilled meat, optionally served with stripped peppers and onions usually served on a flour or corn tortilla. The term originally referred to skirt steak, the cut of beef first used in the dish. Popular alternatives to skirt steak include chicken and other cuts of beef, as well as vegetables instead of meat. In restaurants, the meat is usually cooked with onions and bell peppers. Popular condiments include shredded lettuce, sour cream, guacamole, salsa, pico de gallo, shredded cheese, refried beans, and diced tomatoes. "Tacos de arrachera" is applied to the northern Mexican variant of the dish.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Chili con carne</span> Savory American stew with chili peppers and meat

Chili con carne, meaning "chili with meat", is a spicy stew containing chili peppers, meat, tomatoes, and often pinto beans or kidney beans. Other seasonings may include garlic, onions, and cumin. The dish originated in northern Mexico.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Nachos</span> Tortilla chip dish

Nachos are a Tex-Mex culinary dish consisting of tortilla chips or totopos covered with cheese or cheese sauce, as well as a variety of other toppings and garnishes, often including meats, vegetables, and condiments such as salsa, guacamole, or sour cream. At its most basic form, nachos may consist of merely chips covered with cheese, and served as an appetizer or snack, while other versions are substantial enough as a main course. The dish was created by, and named after, Mexican restaurateur Ignacio Anaya, who created it in 1943 for American customers at the Victory Club restaurant in Piedras Negras, Coahuila.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ninfa's</span> Mexican restaurant in Houston, Texas

The Original Ninfa's on Navigation is a popular Mexican restaurant located at 2704 Navigation Boulevard in Houston, Texas. The restaurant serves both Tex-Mex and Mexican cuisine. The Original Ninfa's was started by Ninfa Rodríguez Laurenzo, a Mexican-American woman, in a tortilla factory. Ninfa Laurenzo became a full-time restaurateur and the tortilla factory closed. Mama Ninfa is widely credited with popularizing the fajita among Houstonians.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cuisine of the Southwestern United States</span> Food eaten in the southwestern United States

The cuisine of the Southwestern United States is food styled after the rustic cooking of the Southwestern United States. It comprises a fusion of recipes for things that might have been eaten by Spanish colonial settlers, cowboys, Native Americans, and Mexicans throughout the post-Columbian era; there is, however, a great diversity in this kind of cuisine throughout the Southwestern states.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Chile con queso</span> Side dish of melted cheese and chili peppers

Chile con queso, sometimes simply called queso, is an appetizer or side dish of melted cheese and chili peppers, typically served in Tex-Mex restaurants as a dip for tortilla chips.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Stuffed peppers</span> Dish involving filling the cavities of a bell pepper with other food

Stuffed peppers is a dish common in many cuisines. It consists of hollowed or halved bell peppers filled with any of a variety of fillings, often including meat, vegetables, cheese, rice, or sauce. The dish is usually assembled by filling the cavities of the peppers and then cooking.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Taco Palenque</span>

Taco Palenque is a Mexican cuisine restaurant chain in South Texas and northern Tamaulipas, Mexico. The restaurant is headquartered in Laredo, Texas and was established in 1987. The restaurant's main dishes are the flame-grilled beef or chicken fajita plate, parrillada, pirata taco, panchos drizzled with bean and cheese on top of tortilla chips, homemade desserts, and breakfast tacos Taco Palenque's salad bar has more than 7 different homemade salsas.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Flour tortilla</span> Soft, thin flatbread made from wheat flour

A flour tortilla or wheat tortilla is a type of soft, thin flatbread made from finely ground wheat flour. Made with flour- and water-based dough, it is pressed and cooked, similar to corn tortillas. The simplest recipes use only flour, water, fat, and salt, but commercially-made flour tortillas generally contain chemical leavening agents such as baking powder, and other ingredients.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Burrito</span> Tex-Mex dish consisting of a wheat flour tortilla wrapped to enclose the filling

A burrito in Mexico is, historically, a regional name, among others, for what is known as a taco, a tortilla filled with food, in other parts of the country. In modern times, it is considered by many as a different dish in Mexican and Tex-Mex cuisine that took form in Ciudad Juárez, consisting of a flour tortilla wrapped into a sealed cylindrical shape around various ingredients. The tortilla is sometimes lightly grilled or steamed to soften it, make it more pliable, and allow it to adhere to itself. Burritos are often eaten by hand, as their tight wrapping keeps the ingredients together. Burritos can also be served "wet", i.e., covered in a savory and spicy sauce, when they would be eaten with a fork and knife.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Felix Tijerina</span> Mexican-American restaurateur, activist, and philanthropist

Felix Tijerina (1905–1965) was a Mexican-American restaurateur, activist, and philanthropist in Houston, Texas. He served as the 25th president of the League of United Latin American Citizens.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Queso flameado</span> Dish of hot melted cheese and spicy chorizo

Queso flameado is a dish of hot melted cheese and spicy chorizo that is often served flambé. Often compared to cheese fondue, it is a party dish; it is popular at cookouts and in restaurants as an appetizer. Almost unique in Mexican cuisine, in the cuisine of the United States this dish has been widely adapted and is considered a native dish in El Paso. In Mexico, it occurs in restaurants more often in the north. Typical main ingredients are melted cheese and a characteristic meat sauce of loose fresh chorizo, tomato, onion, chile and spices. It is served in a small, shallow casserole or other ceramic or metal heat-proof baking dish. The cheese and sauce are prepared separately, and combined just before serving. This may be done at the table, especially if finished with a flambé: high alcohol liquor is poured on the cheese and ignited, and as it burns the server folds in the sauce. If not flambéed, the mixture may be quickly broiled. Either way, the finished dish is presented while it is still bubbling hot, and it is spooned onto small soft tortillas for individual servings.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tex-Mex cuisine in Houston</span>

Tex-Mex cuisine is very popular in Houston. Many Mexican cuisine restaurants in Houston have aspects that originate from Texas culture. Katharine Shilcutt of the Houston Press said in 2012 that "Tex-Mex has been a vital part of our city for more than 100 years" and that it "never waned in that century." She added that "[t]he cultural significance of Tex-Mex as a vital touchstone between generations and an expression of our roots cannot be denied."

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Texan cuisine</span> Food and drinks from Texas

Texan cuisine is the food associated with the Southern U.S. state of Texas, including its native Southwestern cuisine influenced Tex-Mex foods. Texas is a large state, and its cuisine has been influenced by a wide range of cultures, including Tejano/Mexican, Native American, Creole/Cajun, African-American, German, Czech, Southern and other European American groups.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mexican-American cuisine</span> Culinary traditions of Mexican Americans

Mexican-American cuisine is the cuisine of Mexican Americans and their descendants, who have modified Mexican cuisine under the influence of American culture and immigration patterns of Mexicans to the United States.

Josef Centeno is an American chef, restaurateur and cookbook author who specializes in Tex-Mex cuisine. He was nominated for a James Beard award for Best Chef in February 2020.

References

  1. Walsh, Robb. The Tex-Mex Cookbook (XVI ed.). New York: Broadway Books.
  2. Feniger, Susan; Siegel, Helene; Miliken, Mary Sue (2002). Mexican Cooking for Dummies. Scranton: Courage Books.
  3. Martinez, Etienne. "Mexicans in the U.S.A: Mexican-American / Tex-Mex Cuisine". Lightmillennium.org. Retrieved 14 October 2017.
  4. Jennifer Steinhauer (10 February 2014). "If It's Chili, It's Personal". The New York Times. Retrieved 6 January 2015. it was Canary Islanders who brought a taste for it in heavy doses
  5. Goodgame, Dan (15 July 2013). "Recipe: Chile con Queso – Texas Monthly". Texasmonthly.com. Retrieved 28 March 2019.
  6. 1 2 Sharpe, Patricia (August 2003). "Tex-Mex 101". Texas Monthly . Retrieved 20 December 2023.
  7. 1 2 McCarron, Meghan (7 March 2018). "Everything You Know About Tex-Mex Is Wrong". Eater. Retrieved 13 June 2018.
  8. Walsh, Robb (27 July 2000). "Pralines and Pushcarts". Houston Press . Retrieved 11 December 2011.
  9. "Pedernales Recipes 'Good for What Ails.'" Los Angeles Times . 12 September 1968. p. K30
  10. 1 2 3 4 Walsh, Robb (23 November 2000). "The French Connection". Houstonpress.com. Retrieved 14 October 2017.
  11. "How Taco Tuesday Became Taco Friday in Norway". The Culture Trip. 23 July 2018. Retrieved 9 July 2021.
  12. "– Vi solgte taco og tortillachips før alle andre". NRK (in Norwegian Bokmål). 23 November 2018. Retrieved 9 July 2021.
  13. 1 2 Pruitt, Sarah. "Tracing the History of Tex-Mex". HISTORY. Retrieved 4 October 2019.
  14. "Tex-Mex". Mexia Evening News. Mexia, Texas. 23 May 1922.
  15. Oxford English Dictionary entry for Tex-Mex: 1963 N.Y. Times Mag. 11 Aug 50/1 Star of the evening was her Texas or Tex-Mex chili. 1966 Great Bend (Kansas) Daily Tribune 19 Oct 5/4 It's too bad that it has become known as ‘chili powder’ because some homemakers may associate it only with the preparation of ‘Tex-Mex’ dishes.
  16. Spallone, Roz (20 May 1960). "Miss New York State's crown just 'old hat' to family". Binghamton Press. p. 15. Retrieved 16 March 2021.
  17. "6 Oct 1960, 32 - The Record at Newspapers.com". Newspapers.com. Retrieved 20 February 2021.
  18. Walsh, Robb (28 September 2000). "Mama's Got a Brand-new Bag". Houstonpress.com. Retrieved 14 October 2017.
  19. Wheaton, D.R. & Carroll, G.R. (2017). Where did Tex-Mex Come From? The Divisive Emergence of a Social Category. Research in Organizational Behavior, 37, 143 – 166.
  20. Wharton, Rachel (22 April 2019). "Don't Call It Tex-Mex". The New York Times. ISSN   0362-4331 . Retrieved 22 April 2019.
  21. 1 2 3 4 5 6 Pilcher, Jeffrey (2012). Planet Taco A Global History of Mexican Food . Oxford University Press, Incorporated. p. 135.
  22. 1 2 "TSHA | Tijerina, Felix". www.tshaonline.org. Retrieved 12 October 2020.
  23. Press, Houston (21 March 2008). "Felix Mexican Restaurant Closes After 60 Years in Business". Houston Press. Retrieved 12 October 2020.
  24. "Roasted Cauliflower with Cilantro-Pecan Pesto Recipe". Sunset Magazine. Retrieved 31 October 2020.
  25. 1 2 Snyder, Garrett (1 August 2020). "Josef Centeno's downtown restaurant Bäco Mercat has closed permanently". Los Angeles Times.
  26. "Bar Amá". Bar Amá. Retrieved 27 March 2021.
  27. "Orsa & Winston". Orsa & Winston. Retrieved 27 March 2021.
  28. "amá•cita". amá•cita. Retrieved 27 March 2021.
  29. "LA chef Josef Centeno has a Michelin star restaurant and a new cookbook, now he's on a mission to defend Tex-Mex cuisine". Daily News. 2 January 2020. Retrieved 31 October 2020.
  30. Centeno, Josef; Hallock, Betty (5 September 2017). Bäco: Vivid Recipes from the Heart of Los Angeles. Chronicle Books. ISBN   978-1-4521-5578-4.
  31. Hallock, Betty; Centeno, Josef (1 October 2019). Ama: A Modern Tex-Mex Kitchen. Chronicle Books. ISBN   978-1-4521-5685-9.
  32. Rosner, Helen. "The Best Cookbooks of 2019". The New Yorker. Retrieved 31 October 2020.
  33. Bull, Marian (22 October 2019). "The Chef Reclaiming Tex-Mex Says There's One Secret To Successful Nachos". Wall Street Journal. ISSN   0099-9660 . Retrieved 31 October 2020.