Queue (hairstyle)

ᠰᠣᠨᠴᠣᡥᠣ

See also: Tifayifu

Chinese circus performers soon after the Manchu conquest, wearing queues. (Drawing by Johan Nieuhof, 1655–57)

The Queue Order (simplified Chinese :剃发令; traditional Chinese :剃髮令; pinyin :tìfàlìng), ^{[35] [36]} or tonsure decree, was a series of laws violently imposed by the Qing dynasty during the seventeenth century. It was also imposed on Taiwanese indigenous peoples in 1753, ^{[37] [38]} and Koreans who settled in northeast China in the late 19th century, ^{[39] [40]} though the Ryukyuan people of the Ryukyu Kingdom, a tributary of China, requested and were granted an exemption from the mandate.

Traditionally, adult Han Chinese did not cut their hair for philosophical and cultural reasons. According to the Classic of Filial Piety, Confucius said:

We are given our body, skin and hair from our parents; which we ought not to damage. This idea is the quintessence of filial duty. (身體髮膚，受之父母，不敢毀傷，孝之始也。) ^[41]

As a result of this ideology, both men and women wound their hair into a bun (a topknot) or other various hairstyles.

Han Chinese did not object to wearing the queue braid on the back of the head as they traditionally wore all their hair long, but fiercely objected to shaving the forehead so the Qing government exclusively focused on forcing people to shave the forehead rather than wear the braid. Han rebels in the first half of the Qing who objected to Qing hairstyle wore the braid but defied orders to shave the front of the head. One person was executed for refusing to shave the front but he had willingly braided the back of his hair. It was only later that westernized revolutionaries began to view the braid as backwards and advocated adopting short-haired western styles. ^[42] Han rebels against the Qing like the Taiping retained their queue braids on the back but rebelled by growing hair on the front of their heads. This caused the Qing government to view shaving the front of the head as the primary sign of loyalty rather than wearing the braid on the back, which did not violate Han customs and traditional Han did not object to. ^[43] Koxinga criticized the Qing hairstyle by referring to the shaven pate looking like a fly. ^[44] Koxinga and his men objected to shaving when the Qing demanded they shave in exchange for recognizing Koxinga as a feudatory. ^[45] The Qing demanded that Zheng Jing and his men on Taiwan shave to receive recognition as a fiefdom. His men and Ming prince Zhu Shugui fiercely objected to shaving. ^[46]

A soldier during the Boxer Rebellion with queue and conical Asian hat

In 1644, Beijing was sacked by a coalition of rebel forces led by Li Zicheng, a minor Ming dynasty official turned leader of a peasant revolt. The Chongzhen Emperor committed suicide when the city fell, marking the official end of the Ming dynasty. The Han Chinese Ming general Wu Sangui and his army then defected to the Qing and allowed them through Shanhai pass. They then seized control of Beijing, overthrowing Li's short-lived Shun dynasty. They then forced Han Chinese to adopt the queue as a sign of submission. ^[47]

A year later, after the Qing armies reached South China, on 21 July 1645, the regent Dorgon issued an edict ordering all Han men to shave their foreheads and braid the rest of their hair into a queue identical to those worn by the Manchus. ^[48] Qing Manchu prince Dorgon initially canceled the order for all men in Ming territories south of the Great wall (post 1644 additions to the Qing) to shave. It was a Han official from Shandong, Sun Zhixie and Li Ruolin who voluntarily shaved their foreheads and demanded Qing Prince Dorgon impose the queue hairstyle on the entire population which led to the queue order. ^{[49] [50]} The Han Chinese were given 10 days to comply or face death. Though Dorgon admitted that followers of Confucianism might have grounds for objection, most Han officials cited the Ming dynasty's traditional System of Rites and Music as their reason for resistance. This led Dorgon to question their motives: "If officials say that people should not respect our Rites and Music, but rather follow those of the Ming, what can be their true intentions?" ^[47]

In the edict, Dorgon specifically emphasized the fact that Manchus and the Qing Emperor himself all wore the queue and shaved their foreheads, so that by following the queue order, Han Chinese would look like the Manchus and the Emperor. This invoked the Confucian notion that the people were like the sons of the emperor, and should be similar in their appearance. ^{[51] [52] [53]}

The slogan adopted by the Qing was "Cut the hair and keep the head, (or) keep the hair and cut the head" (Chinese :留髮不留頭，留頭不留髮; pinyin :liú fà bù liú tóu, liú tóu bù liú fà). ^[54] People who resisted the order were met with deadly force. Han rebels in Shandong tortured the Qing official who suggested the queue order to Dorgon to death and killed his relatives. ^[55]

The imposition of this order was not uniform; it took up to 10 years of martial enforcement for all of China to be brought into compliance, and while it was the Qing who imposed the queue hairstyle on the general population, they did not always personally execute those who did not obey. It was Han Chinese defectors who carried out massacres against people refusing to wear the queue. Li Chengdong, a Han Chinese general who had served the Ming but defected to the Qing, ^[56] ordered troops to carry out three separate massacres in the city of Jiading within a month, resulting in tens of thousands of deaths. The third massacre left few survivors. ^[57] The three massacres at Jiading District are some of the most infamous, with estimated death tolls in the tens or even hundreds of thousands. ^[58] Jiangyin also held out against about 10,000 Qing troops for 83 days. When the city wall was finally breached on 9 October 1645, the Qing army, led by the Han Chinese Ming defector Liu Liangzuo (劉良佐), who had been ordered to "fill the city with corpses before you sheathe your swords," massacred the entire population, killing between 74,000 and 100,000 people. ^[59]

Han Chinese soldiers in 1645 under Han General Hong Chengchou forced the queue on the people of Jiangnan, while Han people were initially paid silver to wear the queue in Fuzhou when it was first implemented. ^{[60] [61]}

The queue was the only aspect of Manchu culture that the Qing forced on the common Han population. The Qing required people serving as officials to wear Manchu clothing, but allowed other Han civilians to continue wearing Hanfu (Han clothing). Nevertheless, most Han civilian men voluntarily adopted Manchu clothing ^{[62] [63]} like Changshan of their own free will. Throughout the Qing dynasty Han women continued to wear Han clothing. ^[64]

However, the shaving policy was not enforced in the Tusi autonomous chiefdoms in Southwestern China where many minorities lived. There was one Han Chinese Tusi, the Chiefdom of Kokang populated by Han Kokang people.

The Qing dynasty required all subjects of all ethnicities to shave their foreheads and wear the queue braid including Muslims like Hui people and Salar people but some Turkic Muslim ethnicities like Uyghur and Salar people already shaved their entire heads as part of their culture and were bald so they were not able to wear the braids on the back unless they wore wigs with fake queues. According to Jonathan Neaman Lipman the Qing dynasty required Salars to wear the queue. ^{[65] [66] [67]} During the Qing Salar men shaved their hair bald while when they went to journey in public they put on artificial queues. ^[68] Uyghur men shaved their hair bald during the Qing. ^[69] Uyghur males at the present still shave their heads bald in the summer. ^[70] Chen Cheng observed that Muslim Turks in 14th–15th century Turfan and Kumul shaved their heads while non-Muslim Turks grew long hair. ^{[71] [72]}

However, after Jahangir Khoja invaded Kashgar, Turkistani Muslim begs and officials in Xinjiang eagerly fought for the "privilege" of wearing a queue to show their steadfast loyalty to the Empire. High-ranking begs were granted this right. ^[73]

The purpose of the Queue Order was to demonstrate loyalty to the Qing, and refusing to shave one's hair came to symbolize revolutionary ideals, as seen during the White Lotus Rebellion. Because of this, the members of the Taiping Rebellion were sometimes called the Long hairs (長毛) or Hair rebels (髮逆). ^[74]

Resistance to the queue

Han Chinese resistance to adopting the queue was widespread and bloody. The Chinese in the Liaodong Peninsula rebelled in 1622 and 1625 in response to the implementation of the mandatory hairstyle. The Manchus responded swiftly by killing the educated elite and instituting a stricter separation between Han Chinese and Manchus. ^[75]

In 1645, the enforcement of the queue order was taken a step further by the ruling Manchus when it was decreed that any man who did not adopt the Manchu hairstyle within ten days would be executed. The intellectual Lu Xun summed up the Chinese reaction to the implementation of the mandatory Manchu hairstyle by stating, "In fact, the Chinese people in those days revolted not because the country was on the verge of ruin, but because they had to wear queues." In 1683 Zheng Keshuang surrendered and wore a queue. ^[75]

The queue became a symbol of the Qing dynasty and a custom except among Buddhist monastics. ^{[76] [77] [78]} Some revolutionists, supporters of the Hundred Days' Reform or students who studied abroad cut their braids. The Xinhai Revolution in 1911 led to a complete change in hairstyle almost overnight. The queue became unpopular as it became associated with a fallen government; this is depicted in Lu Xun's short story Storm in a Teacup and is demonstrated by the fact that Chinese citizens in Hong Kong collectively changed to short haircuts. ^[79]

Cantonese outlaw bandit pirates in the Guangdong maritime frontier with Vietnam in the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries wore their hair long in defiance of the Qing laws which mandated cutting. ^[80]

Many people were violating the Qing laws on hair at the end of the dynasty. Some Chinese chose to wear the queue but not to shave their crown, while those people who cut the queue off and did not shave were considered revolutionary and others maintained the state-mandated combination of the queue and shaved crown. ^[81]

Exemptions

Neither Taoist priests nor Buddhist monks were required to wear the queue by the Qing; they continued to wear their traditional hairstyles, completely shaved heads for Buddhist monks, and long hair in the traditional Chinese topknot for Taoist priests. ^{[82] [83] [84]}

Foreign reaction

Barbershop in the Qing Dynasty (1870s)

The Manchus' willingness to impose the queue and their dress style on the men of China was viewed as an example to emulate by some foreign observers. H. E. M. James, a British civil servant in India, wrote in 1887 that the British ought to act in a similarly decisive way when imposing their will in India. In his view, the British administration should have outlawed practises such as Sati much earlier than 1829, which James ascribed to a British unwillingness to challenge long-held Indian traditions, no matter how detrimental they were to the country. ^[85]

British author Demetrius Charles Boulger in 1899 proposed that Britain form and head an alliance of "Philo-Chinese Powers" in setting up a new government for China based in Shanghai and Nanking as two capitals along the River Yangtze, to counter the interests of other powers in the region like the Russians due to what he believed was the imminent collapse of the Qing dynasty. The Yangtze valley was controlled by Qing officials such as Liu Kunyi and Zhang Zhidong, who were not under Beijing's influence and whom Boulger believed Britain could work with to stabilize China. He proposed that at Nanjing and Hankou a force of Chinese soldiers trained by the British be deployed and in Hong Kong, Weihaiwei and the Yangtze valley and it would have no allegiance to the Qing, and as such they in his idea would forgo the queue and be made to grow their hair long as a symbolic measure to "increasing the confidence of the Chinese in the advent of a new era". ^{[86] [87]} Boulger stated he could not discern from the Chinese he spoke to on whether the queue was invented by Nurhaci to impose on the Chinese as a symbol of loyalty or whether it was an already established Manchu custom as no one seemed to know the origin of it from his or other sinologists' inquiries. ^[88]

English adventurer Augustus Frederick Lindley wrote that the beardless, youthful long haired Han Chinese rebels from Hunan in the Taiping armies who grew all their hair long while fighting against the Qing dynasty were among the most beautiful men in the world unlike, in his mind, the Han Chinese who wore the queue, with Lindley calling the shaved part "a disfigurement". ^[89]

Vietnam

Main article: Ohaguro § Elsewhere

After Nguyễn Huệ defeated the Later Lê dynasty, high ranking Lê loyalists and the last Lê emperor Lê Chiêu Thống fled Vietnam for asylum in Qing China. They went to Beijing where Lê Chiêu Thống was appointed a Chinese mandarin of the fourth rank in the Han Yellow Bordered Banner, while lower ranking loyalists were sent to cultivate government land and join the Green Standard Army in Sichuan and Zhejiang. They adopted Qing clothing and adopt the queue hairstyle, effectively becoming naturalized subjects of the Qing dynasty affording them protection against Vietnamese demands for extradition. Some Lê loyalists were also sent to Central Asia in Urumqi. ^{[90] [91]} Modern descendants of the Lê monarch can be traced to southern Vietnam and Urumqi, Xinjiang. ^{[92] [93] [94]}

Other queues

Curley Bear with queued hair

Native American

The queue is also a Native American hairstyle, as described in the book House Made of Dawn by N. Scott Momaday.

Western

A Spanish soldier wearing a queue (1761)

In the 18th century, European soldiers styled their traditionally long hair into a queue called the "soldier's queue." The 18th century custom of tying long curly wigs (which normally reached down the back and chest) behind the neck began among soldiers and hunters, as seen as early as 1678 in a depiction of King Louis XIV hunting with his hair tied back. ^{[95] [96]} By the 1730s, the queue had spread from the military and became widespread among civilians. ^[97] A 1697 depiction of a royal guard during the wedding of the Duke of Burgundy shows the sporting of this hairstyle, which came to influence civilian fashions due to the frequent wars France engaged in during Louis' reign.

The queue, either curled or covered with a silk bag (known as a bag wig), gradually replaced the unwieldy big wigs and remained important to men's fashion until the change of dress in the 1790s effected by the French Revolution. ^[98] For civilian men, the tyewig (a wig tied into a queue) and the bag wig became widespread after the death of Louis XIV; wigs that did not feature a queue such as the bob wig were favoured by those who could not afford a long wig. The type of wig became an indicator of one's rank, occupation and political leanings. ^[99]

The first western army in which the wearing of a queue by its soldiers was forbidden was the Russian army in the 1780s. Grigory Potemkin, a Russian statesman and favourite of Catherine the Great, abhorred the tight uniforms and uncomfortable powdered wigs tied in a queue worn by soldiers of the Russian Army and instigated a complete revision of both. Along with comfortable, practical, well-fitting uniforms, his reforms introduced neat, natural hairstyles for all, with no wigs, powder and grease, or hair-tying evident. ^[100]

The French army plaited their wigs into a short queue (the French word for "tail") tied with a ribbon in the back, while the British military used the Ramillies wig, which featured a very long queue tied with two black ribbons, one at the neck and one at the tail end. ^[101] The French army continued keeping queues until the French Consulate period (1799-1804), when Napoleon Bonaparte and other officers promoted close cropped hair, known as à la Titus . Napoleon himself, initially wearing long hair tied in a queue, changed his hairstyle and cut his hair short while in Egypt in 1798. ^[102] However, hair policy in the French army was not uniform; some regiments such as the Imperial Guard foot grenadiers stuck to queues long afterwards, while the 2nd Line Infantry kept their queues as late as 1812. Short hair only became mandated at the end of the First Empire with the ordinance of 25 September 1815. ^[103] Marshal Jean Lannes notably stood out due to his refusal to cut his queue. ^{[104] [105]}

British soldiers and sailors during the 18th century also wore their hair in a queue. While not always braided, the hair was pulled back very tight into a single tail, wrapped around a piece of leather and tied down with a ribbon. The hair was often greased and powdered in a fashion similar to powdered wigs, or tarred in the case of sailors. It was said that the soldiers' hair was pulled back so tightly that they had difficulty closing their eyes afterwards. The use of white hair powder in the British Army was discontinued in 1796 and queues were ordered to be cut off four years later. ^[106] They continued to be worn in the Royal Navy for a while longer, where they were known as "pigtails". Officers wore pigtails until 1805 and other ranks continued to wear them until about 1820. ^[107]

In the Prussian Army and those of several other states within the Holy Roman Empire, the soldier's queue was mandatory under the reign of Frederick William I of Prussia. An artificial or "patent" queue was issued to recruits whose hair was too short to plait. The style was abolished in the Prussian Army in 1807. ^[108]

In the United States Army, queues or pigtails had been worn since the Revolutionary War (1775–1783) until 1801. The order to remove all queues was issued on 30 April 1801 by Major General James Wilkinson. The order was highly unpopular with both officers and men, leading to several desertions and threats of resignation. One senior officer, Lieutenant Colonel Thomas Butler, was eventually court-martialled in 1803 for failing to cut his hair. ^[109] In 1817 during a period known as the Era of Good Feelings, president James Monroe, the last U.S. president who was a Revolutionary War veteran, went on a country-wide Great Goodwill Tour. On the tour he donned a Revolutionary War officer's uniform and tied his long, powdered hair in a queue according to the old-fashioned style of the 18th century. ^[110]

See also

• China portal
• Fashion portal
• History portal

• Beard and haircut laws by country
• Braid (hairstyle)
• Cheongsam
• Chupryna
• Foot binding
• Hanfu
• List of hairstyles
• Mohawk
• Pigtail
• Pigtail Ordinance
• Rattail (haircut)
• Sikha

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Works cited

• Dennerline, Jerry (2002). "The Shun-chih Reign". In Peterson, Willard J. (ed.). Cambridge History of China, Vol. 9, Part 1: The Ch'ing Dynasty to 1800. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. pp. 73–119. ISBN   0-521-24334-3.
• Ebrey, Patricia (1993). Chinese Civilization: A Sourcebook. Simon and Schuster.
• Faure, David (2007). Emperor and Ancestor: State and Lineage in South China. Stanford University Press. ISBN   978-0-8047-5318-0.
• Nguyễn Khắc Thuần (2005), Danh tướng Việt Nam, Nhà Xuất bản Giáo dục.
• Rhoads, Edward J. M. (2011). Manchus and Han: Ethnic Relations and Political Power in Late Qing and Early Republican China, 1861–1928. University of Washington Press. ISBN   978-0-295-80412-5 . Retrieved 10 March 2014.
• Sinor, Denis, ed. (1990). The Cambridge History of Early Inner Asia, Volume 1 (illustrated, reprint ed.). Cambridge University Press. ISBN   0-521-24304-1 . Retrieved 10 March 2014.
• Struve, Lynn (1988). "The Southern Ming". In Frederic W. Mote; Denis Twitchett; John King Fairbank (eds.). Cambridge History of China, Volume 7, The Ming Dynasty, 1368–1644. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. pp. 641–725. ISBN   0-521-24332-7.
• Wakeman, Frederic (1975b), "Localism and Loyalism During the Ch'ing Conquest of Kiangnan: The Tragedy of Chiang-yin", in Frederic Wakeman Jr.; Carolyn Grant (eds.), Conflict and Control in Late Imperial China, Berkeley: Center of Chinese Studies, University of California, Berkeley, pp. 43–85, ISBN   978-0520025974 .
• Wakeman, Frederic (1985). The Great Enterprise: The Manchu Reconstruction of Imperial Order in Seventeenth-Century China. University of California Press. ISBN   0-520-04804-0. In two volumes. [ Volume 1. University of California Press. 31 March 1986. ISBN   9780520048041.]
• 张博泉 (Zhang Boquan) (1984). 《金史简编》. 辽宁人民出版社.
• Also mentioned in "Dragonwings", by Laurence Yep, Chapter 4

Further reading

• Struve, Lynn A (1998), Voices from the Ming-Qing Cataclysm: China in Tigers' Jaws, Yale University Press, ISBN   978-0-300-07553-3 . (312 pages).

External links

• Media related to Queues (hair fashion) at Wikimedia Commons
• The dictionary definition of queue (hairstyle) at Wiktionary

Queue
Chinese-American men with queues in Chinatown, San Francisco, 1880s
Romanization	soncoho

v t e Human hair
Classification	by type Lanugo Body Terminal Vellus by location Body Ear Nose Eyebrow unibrow Eyelash Underarm Chest Abdominal Pubic Leg
Head hairstyles (list of hairstyles)	Afro Afro puffs Asymmetric cut Bald Bangs Beehive Big hair Blowout Bob cut Bouffant Bowl cut Braid Broccoli haircut Brush, butch, burr cut Bun  (odango) Bunches Businessman cut Butterfly haircut Buzz cut Caesar cut Chignon Chonmage Comb over Conk Cornrows Crew cut Crochet braids Croydon facelift Curly hair Curtained hair Czupryna Devilock Dido flip Digital perm Dreadlocks Ducktail Edgar cut Eton crop Extensions Fauxhawk Feathered hair Finger wave Flattop Fontange French braid French twist Fringe Frosted tips Hair crimping Hair twists High and tight Hime cut Historical Christian hairstyles Hi-top fade Induction cut Ivy League, Harvard, Princeton cut Japanese women Jewfro Jheri curl Kinky hair Kiss curl Laid edges Layered hair Liberty spikes Long hair Lob cut Lovelock Marcelling Mod cut Mohawk Mullet 1950s 1980s Pageboy Part Payot Pigtail Pixie cut Pompadour Ponytail Punch perm Professional cut Queue Quiff Rattail Razor cut Regular haircut Ringlets Shag Shape-up Shikha Shimada Short back and sides Short brush cut Short hair Spiky hair Straight hair Standard haircut Step cut Surfer hair Taper cut Temple fade Titus cut Tonsure Updo Undercut Victory rolls Waves Widow's peak Wings
Facial hair (list)	Beard Chinstrap Goatee Ned Kelly Shenandoah Soul patch Van Dyke Moustache Fu Manchu handlebar horseshoe pencil toothbrush walrus Designer stubble Sideburns
Hair subtraction	cosmetic Removal waxing threading plucking chemical electric laser IPL Shaving head leg cream brush soap Razor electric safety straight disorders Alopecia areata totalis universalis Frictional alopecia Pattern hair loss Hypertrichosis Management Trichophilia Trichotillomania Pogonophobia
Haircare products	Brush Clay Clipper Comb Conditioner Dryer Gel Hairstyling products Hot comb Iron Mousse Pomade Relaxer Rollers Shampoo Spray Volumizer Wax Hair texture powder
Haircare techniques	Backcombing Hair coloring Crimping Curly Girl Method Hair cutting Perm Shampoo and set Straightening
Health and medical	Greying of hair Hair follicle Hair growth Trichology
Related	Andre Walker Hair Typing System Beard and haircut laws by country Bearded lady Barber  (pole) Eponymous hairstyle Frizz Good hair Hairdresser list Hair fetishism