Neapolitan tailoring

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Neapolitan tailoring is a style of men's tailoring that originated in Naples, Italy, in the early 20th century. It is characterized by a lightweight construction, natural shoulder, minimal padding, and an emphasis on comfort and fluidity. Developed as a response to the structured and formal British Savile Row tailoring, Neapolitan tailoring reflects the local climate, culture, and relaxed lifestyle of southern Italy. [1] It has since become an influential school of menswear design, recognized for its artisanal quality and understated elegance. [2]

Contents

History

Neapolitan tailoring takes its roots in the late 19th century, with early innovators like the Mele brothers and Raffaele Sardonelli establishing Naples as a hub for fine menswear. In the 1920s, a distinct style took form through tailors such as Antonio Caggiula and Vincenzo Attolini, [3] who rejected the heavy British model in favour of unstructured, lighter jackets suited to Naples' climate and lifestyle. This led to the creation of the Neapolitan jacket. [4]

By the 1950s, designers like Fausto Sarli and Mario Valentino brought Neapolitan fashion to international prominence through events like Giorgini's Florence shows and the 1954 "Congress of Fashion" in Naples. [4] Vincenzo's son, Cesare Attolini, helped to promote the Neapolitan silhouette beyond Italy. [5] [6]

Characteristics

Tailors and brands

Prominent bespoke tailors based in Naples include Pino Peluso, Panico, Zizolfi, Manna, Solito, Dalcuore, Pirozzi, Caliendo, Ciardi, Sabino, Ambrosi, and Rubinacci. [10] [11] [12]

Neapolitan ready-to-wear brands include Cesare Attolini, Kiton, Isaia and Orazio Luciano for tailored garments; Barba, Finamore, D’Avino, Salvatore Piccolo, Borriello, Anna Matuozzo and Luigi Borrelli for shirts; and E. Marinella, F. Marino, Calabrese, E.G. Cappelli, Mario Talarico and Omega Guanti for accessories (ties, gloves, umbrellas). [2] [10]

References

  1. Arianna Reggio (6 June 2017). "Your Guide to Neapolitan Jacket Characteristics". journal.styleforum.net. Archived from the original on 5 September 2017. Retrieved 5 September 2017.
  2. 1 2 D'Acierno, Pellegrino; Pugliese, Stanislao G. (2018). Delirious Naples: A Cultural History of the City of the Sun. Fordham University Press. ISBN   978-0-8232-8000-1.
  3. "Doppio Impuntura Explained: What Italian Tailors Never Tell You". Gent Style. June 28, 2025.
  4. 1 2 Motta, Giovanna (2018-06-11). Fashion through History: Costumes, Symbols, Communication (Volume II). Cambridge Scholars Publishing. ISBN   978-1-5275-1196-5.
  5. New York magazine, Cesare Attolini: Critic's Pick Archived 2020-10-14 at the Wayback Machine
  6. "These Top Stylists Helped Some of Our Editors Retool Their Everyday Looks". Robb Report. 2021-08-28. Retrieved 2021-08-31.
  7. "TAILORING: CHARACTERISTICS OF THE NEAPOLITAN STYLE". Studio 104.
  8. "Barchetta". The Fashiongton Post. 2022-06-21. Retrieved 2025-06-25.
  9. London Palomba, Asia (December 11, 2023). "The Art of Neapolitan Tailoring". America Domani.
  10. 1 2 Jacomet, Hugo (2017). The Italian Gentleman. Thames & Hudson. ISBN   978-0-500-51857-1.
  11. Jacomet, Hugo (1 August 2016). "Peluso and Manna : Two Neapolitan Gems you should Know". Parisian Gentleman.
  12. Compton, Simon (6 January 2017). "Building a wardrobe: Neapolitan tailoring". Permanent Style.

See also