Neapolitan tailoring is a style of men's tailoring that originated in Naples, Italy, in the early 20th century. It is characterized by a lightweight construction, natural shoulder, minimal padding, and an emphasis on comfort and fluidity. Developed as a response to the structured and formal British Savile Row tailoring, Neapolitan tailoring reflects the local climate, culture, and relaxed lifestyle of southern Italy. [1] It has since become an influential school of menswear design, recognized for its artisanal quality and understated elegance. [2]
Neapolitan tailoring takes its roots in the late 19th century, with early innovators like the Mele brothers and Raffaele Sardonelli establishing Naples as a hub for fine menswear. In the 1920s, a distinct style took form through tailors such as Antonio Caggiula and Vincenzo Attolini, [3] who rejected the heavy British model in favour of unstructured, lighter jackets suited to Naples' climate and lifestyle. This led to the creation of the Neapolitan jacket. [4]
By the 1950s, designers like Fausto Sarli and Mario Valentino brought Neapolitan fashion to international prominence through events like Giorgini's Florence shows and the 1954 "Congress of Fashion" in Naples. [4] Vincenzo's son, Cesare Attolini, helped to promote the Neapolitan silhouette beyond Italy. [5] [6]
Prominent bespoke tailors based in Naples include Pino Peluso, Panico, Zizolfi, Manna, Solito, Dalcuore, Pirozzi, Caliendo, Ciardi, Sabino, Ambrosi, and Rubinacci. [10] [11] [12]
Neapolitan ready-to-wear brands include Cesare Attolini, Kiton, Isaia and Orazio Luciano for tailored garments; Barba, Finamore, D’Avino, Salvatore Piccolo, Borriello, Anna Matuozzo and Luigi Borrelli for shirts; and E. Marinella, F. Marino, Calabrese, E.G. Cappelli, Mario Talarico and Omega Guanti for accessories (ties, gloves, umbrellas). [2] [10]