Pandemic baking

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Sourdough baked during lockdown Sourdough bread.jpg
Sourdough baked during lockdown

During the 2020 COVID-19 lockdowns, home baking experienced an explosion of interest, which was termed pandemic baking, lockdown baking, or quarantine baking. The increase in home baking sparked by the pandemic outlasted the lockdowns, resulting in an overall increase in interest in home baking.

Contents

The most popular bakes were breads; due to yeast shortages, sourdough breads were particularly popular in some areas and unleavened breads or breads leavened with baking soda, baking powder, or beer were also popular.

Background

Baking-aisle sales had been flat since 2016. [1] The COVID-19 pandemic forced many workers into working remotely or being unable to work at all; in both cases, people who had previously spent many hours a day away from home were home full time. [2]

Many newly-homebound workers developed hobbies during the pandemic that they hadn't previously had time to pursue. Baking was one of the most popular. [3] Bread and Viennoiserie in particular are types of baking that require the baker to be available at multiple points -- the timing of which are not always easy to predict -- during a baking process that might be hours to days long. [2]

Baking has also been associated with stress relief. [4] [5] [6] [7]

Causes

Empty supermarket bread aisle in Wagga Wagga, New South Wales Empty bread aisle at Woolworths in the Wagga Wagga Marketplace in March 2020.jpg
Empty supermarket bread aisle in Wagga Wagga, New South Wales

The interest in bread making was associated with newly-homebound workers developing hobbies they hadn't previously had the time at home to pursue, such as bread baking. It also was associated with retail bakery closings due to the pandemic, which meant those bakeries' customers couldn't access the baked goods they previously had regularly consumed. [8] Some areas also experienced panic buying of bread. In much of the world breadbaking became symbolic of resilience in the response to the lockdowns. [9]

According to Emily St. James, "bread baking is a thing we do in a crisis". [10] Before the pandemic, US company King Arthur Baking was in the process of rebranding; the company's rebranding studies had found that many of their customers engaged in stress baking: baking at home to bring joy to themselves and others during stressful times. [4] [5]

Similar to the COVID-19 pandemic, the Spanish flu pandemic of 1918-1919 also was a time with food shortages. A lot of people took the time during both COVID-19 and the Spanish flu to learn how to bake bread. During both pandemics the death rate was very high and people were ordered to stay home. For example 0.47% out of 1000 people in the population died in both pandemics. It was stated that in every family there would be at least one person they know to die. Due to the death rates, Many people developed new hobbies and baking happened to be a popular one during both pandemics. Developing the hobby of cooking and baking eased the mind of people that if there were a shortage, they would be okay. If the store ran out of bread they would get the ingredients and make it at home. Even when shortages of flour came up, during COVID we had social media. Which allowed people to connect and share where things like flour and yeast could be found. [11]

Baking in tandem or in classes via video chat was also a method people used for social interaction, either with current family and friends or as a way to develop connection during a period of social isolation, as was admiring others' completed bakes posted on social media. [10] [12] [13] [14]

Some bakers recreated nostalgic favorites from the past; in India school cake experienced a resurgence in popularity. [13] Juliana Young, writing in Digest: A Journal of Foodways and Culture, agreed that nostalgia, and a desire for tradition during a time when many traditions were unavailable, contributed to the impulse to bake. [12] The BBC argued that cooking and baking, even for oneself, can invoke feelings of shared experience and social interaction because food is often shared. [15] Baking, and kneading in particular, has long been noted as a calming and meditative activity. [6] [7]

Popularity

In Britain over half of those surveyed agreed (39%) or strongly agreed (15%) that they'd "started baking again due to more free time during lockdown". [14] In the US, 31% of consumers reported having baked at least once a week and another 24% reported having baked once or twice a month in 2022. [16] Mark Bittman referred to the increase in interest as "the recent baking craze". [2]

Cakes and cookies were popular bakes, but breads were the items most focussed on. [6] [17]

Banana bread was a popular bake in the UK, India, and the US. [14] [18] Sourdough bread was popular in the US; in the UK it was popular among Millennials. [19] [14]

Short term consequences

Books on breadmaking experienced spikes in sales. [10] Calls to King Arthur's Baker's Hotline advice line spiked, requiring the company to increase the size of that team. [8] In France, Moulinex reported a 40% increase in sales of breadmakers. [20] Pinterest reported an over 1500% increase in the search term "savory croissant" in Argentina. [17]

Sales of flour, yeast, and many other baking supplies in the US doubled or tripled in the first months of the pandemic. [21] Some areas experienced shortages of flour and yeast that began with the first lockdowns and lasted for months. [10] [22] [6] [17] Unlike the COVID-19 shortages caused by hoarding and panic buying, such as toilet paper and hand sanitizer, people were actually buying flour and yeast, using it, and wanting to buy more. [8] In the case of King Arthur Flour, the inability to meet demand wasn't due to a shortage of wheat or milling capacity but to bagging capacity for 5-pound bags of flour. [8]

Because of the yeast shortages, many bread bakers experimented with sourdough. [23] One New York baker reported that after having offered on Instagram to share her sourdough discard, she received hundreds of requests within 24 hours and more than a thousand, some from as far away as Singapore and Australia. [24]

Other bakers experimented with unleavened breads or breads leavened with baking soda, baking powder, or beer, such as damper bread, an Australian bread that is traditionally made without leavening. [17]

Longer effects

Some sources indicate that pandemic baking turned into a long-term higher interest in home baking. [25] According to Food Innovation Quarterly , pandemic baking "revived the practice of baking homemade bread in France and Italy". [26] According to Freedonia Group, "home baking activity remains more popular [in 2023] compared to 2019". [27]

According to Supermarket News , in the US there was "a lingering interest in the activity, which...is helping buoy retail sales of baking ingredients". [3] The trade magazine in 2023 predicted ongoing increases in sales of home baking supplies through at least 2027 due to "more consumers taking up home baking as an activity in the longer term after initially baking more during the pandemic". [3] In October 2023 it reported interest in sourdough baking classes had remained high.

According to Markus Haberfellner of the Upper Austrian Haberfellner Mill, consumer demand for flour had returned to pre-pandemic levels, but "what has remained is that those people have seen how much effort goes into baking bread. So, they appreciate the professional group of bakers and are returning to them". [28]

According to the Utah Farm Bureau, interest in sourdough baking continued to increase after the end of the pandemic. [19]

According to Baking Business , after the sharp increase in sales of home baking supplies in 2020, there was a slight decline in 2021 but another increase in 2022. [29]

Some commercial bakeries, some of whom had previously considered home baking as a threat to their business, rolled out home baking kits to draw sales from people who remained interested in home baking after the pandemic had ended. [16] Baking supply companies also rolled out new kits and recipes to encourage pandemic bakers to maintain the habit after the lockdowns ended. [1]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bread</span> Food made of flour and water

Bread is a staple food prepared from a dough of flour and water, usually by baking. Throughout recorded history and around the world, it has been an important part of many cultures' diet. It is one of the oldest human-made foods, having been of significance since the dawn of agriculture, and plays an essential role in both religious rituals and secular culture.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sourdough</span> Type of sour bread

Sourdough or sourdough bread is a bread made by the fermentation of dough using wild lactobacillaceae and yeast. Lactic acid from fermentation imparts a sour taste and improves keeping qualities.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Baker's yeast</span> Yeast used as a leavening agent in baking

Baker's yeast is the common name for the strains of yeast commonly used in baking bread and other bakery products, serving as a leavening agent which causes the bread to rise by converting the fermentable sugars present in the dough into carbon dioxide and ethanol. Baker's yeast is of the species Saccharomyces cerevisiae, and is the same species as the kind commonly used in alcoholic fermentation, which is called brewer's yeast or the deactivated form nutritional yeast. Baker's yeast is also a single-cell microorganism found on and around the human body.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bakery</span> Type of business that sells flour-based food

A bakery is an establishment that produces and sells flour-based baked goods made in an oven such as bread, cookies, cakes, doughnuts, bagels, pastries, and pies. Some retail bakeries are also categorized as cafés, serving coffee and tea to customers who wish to consume the baked goods on the premises. In some countries, a distinction is made between bakeries, which primarily sell breads, and pâtisseries, which primarily sell sweet baked goods.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Rugbrød</span> Danish-style rye bread

Rugbrød is a very common form of rye bread from Denmark. Rugbrød usually resembles a long brown extruded rectangle, no more than 12 cm high, and 30–35 cm wide, depending on the bread pan in which it is baked. The basic ingredient is rye flour which will produce a plain or "old-fashioned" bread of uniform, somewhat heavy structure, but the most popular versions today contain whole grains and often other seeds such as sunflower seeds, linseeds or pumpkin seeds. Most Danes eat rugbrød every day.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bread machine</span> Type of home appliance for baking bread

A bread making machine or breadmaker is a home appliance for baking bread. It consists of a bread pan, at the bottom of which are one or more built-in paddles, mounted in the center of a small special-purpose oven. The machine is usually controlled by a built-in computer using settings input via a control panel. Most bread machines have different cycles for different kinds of dough—including white bread, whole grain, European-style, and dough-only. Many also have a timer to allow the bread machine to function without operator input, and some high-end models allow the user to program a custom cycle.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Biga (bread baking)</span> Type of pre-fermentation used in Italian baking

Biga is a type of pre-fermentation used in Italian baking. Many popular Italian breads, including ciabatta, are made using a biga. Using a biga adds complexity to the bread's flavor and is often used in breads that need a light, open texture with holes. Apart from adding to flavor and texture, a biga also helps to preserve bread by making it less perishable.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Rye bread</span> Type of bread made with various proportions of flour from rye grain

Rye bread is a type of bread made with various proportions of flour from rye grain. It can be light or dark in color, depending on the type of flour used and the addition of coloring agents, and is typically denser than bread made from wheat flour. Compared to white bread, it is higher in fiber, darker in color, and stronger in flavor. The world's largest exporter of rye bread is Poland.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pre-ferment</span> Process in some methods of bread making

A ferment is a fermentation starter used in indirect methods of bread making. It may also be called mother dough.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Proofing (baking technique)</span> Process by which a yeast-leavened dough rises

In cooking, proofing is a step in the preparation of yeast bread and other baked goods in which the dough is allowed to rest and rise a final time before baking. During this rest period, yeast ferments the dough and produces gases, thereby leavening the dough.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">King Arthur Baking</span> American flour and baking company

The King Arthur Baking Company, formerly the King Arthur Flour Company, is an American supplier of flour, ingredients, baking mixes, cookbooks, and baked goods. It also runs two baking schools, one at its Norwich, Vermont bakery and the other in Burlington, Washington.

Barm, also called ale yeast, is the foam or scum formed on the top of a fermenting liquid, such as beer, wine, or feedstock for spirits or industrial ethanol distillation. It is used to leaven bread, or set up fermentation in a new batch of liquor. Barm, as a leaven, has also been made from ground millet combined with must out of wine-tubs and is sometimes used in English baking as a synonym for a natural leaven (sourdough). Various cultures derived from barm, usually Saccharomyces cerevisiae, became ancestral to most forms of brewer's yeast and baker's yeast currently on the market.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">History of bread</span> Summary of the development of the popular staple food

Bread was central to the formation of early human societies. From the Fertile Crescent, where wheat was domesticated, cultivation spread north and west, to Europe and North Africa, and east towards East Asia. This in turn led to the formation of towns, as opposed to the nomadic lifestyle and gave rise to more and more sophisticated forms of societal organization. Similar developments occurred in the Americas with maize and in Asia with rice.

The history of California bread as a prominent factor in the field of bread baking dates from the days of the California Gold Rush around 1849, encompassing the development of sourdough bread in San Francisco. It includes the rise of artisan bakeries in the 1980s, which strongly influenced what has been called the "Bread Revolution".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">No-knead bread</span> Bread made from dough that is not kneaded

No-knead bread is a method of bread baking that uses a very long fermentation (rising) time instead of kneading to form the gluten strands that give the bread its texture. It is characterized by a low yeast content and a very wet dough.

Bread is a staple food throughout Europe. Throughout the 20th century, there was a huge increase in global production, mainly due to a rise in available, developed land throughout Europe, North America and Africa.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Carl Griffith's sourdough starter</span> Sourdough culture

Carl Griffith's sourdough starter, also known as the Oregon Trail Sourdough or Carl's starter, is a sourdough culture, a colony of wild yeast and bacteria cultivated in a mixture of flour and water for use as leavening. Carl's starter has a long history, dating back at least to 1847, when it was carried along the Oregon Trail by settlers from Missouri to Oregon. It was then passed down as an heirloom within the family of Carl Griffith, who shared it via Usenet in the 1990s. Since 2000, it has been maintained and shared by a dedicated historical preservation society; its volunteers keep the starter alive, feeding the organisms flour and water, and mail free samples worldwide on request for use by bakers in seeding their own cultures.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bread Ahead</span> British bakery chain

Bread Ahead is a chain of bakeries that also provide baking classes in London, United Kingdom. It was founded in 2013 by Matthew Jones in London's Borough Market. Under Jones' guidance as founder and head baker, it has specialised in doughnuts, using British sourced ingredients from traders in Borough Market and Chelmsford in Essex. It also sells sourdough breads, cakes, pizza, coffees and pastries.

References

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Further reading